Centerboard Issues

[rkhinote]

I have a older 1971 Day Sailer II. I have had it for several years and suspected the centerboard was not dropping into the lowered position. This week I got under it and found that it dropped only about 15 degrees then came to a hard stop. The board itself is moving freely until the stop. Then I noticed the downhaul line actually pulled the centerboard up. The uphaul line seemed to be working correctly. I reviewed all the centerboard topics posted and did not come across this specific problem. Any idea of what is going on here and how to fix it.

Roger

[talbot]

The presumptive cause for DS II centerboard problems is fouled pennants inside the trunk. The definitive cure is (1) dropping the board to straighten out the cables (replacing them if necessary); (2) installing a bungee to keep light tension on the uphaul cable when it is slack.

One way or another, it sounds like you have to remove the board. That's another discussion in itself, but if it's any consolation, it is one of the classic procedures that define a DS II owner. Welcome to the club.

[JACK FLASH]

I have to tell you, I don't miss the centerboard set up from my old Daysailer. After a lot of work and heart ache I finally got it working perfectly everytime only to hit a submerged unmovable object that sheared the centerboard off. I then had issues finding a suitable replacement as the trunks was not true in shape. I had one custom-made in Canada by Phil's Foils who may or may not still be in business. That solved the issue. The daysailer I am restoring now is a I so no more cables for me.
To get the board out I used to "launch" the boat into my yard. I would then lift one side and prop a 2x4 between the ground and the lip where the deck and hull meet. Be advised that some times it is necessary to secure the "leward" side of the hull so the boat doesn't just slip sideways as you try to lift. The boat ends up almost vertical giving you access to both sides.

[GreenLake]

I yard launched my DS one year with the mast standing. A gentle tug on the halyard was all it took to tip it over, and using a concrete brick is all it takes to keep the mast flat to work on the (now vertical) underside of the boat. With the mast standing, there's also no need to worry about the boat trying to flip over to the full 180°...

The 90° position is great for trouble shooting the action of the CB, but perhaps less ideal for working on the CB itself.

My preferred method for raising / lowering the CB when the boat is fully upside down is with two webbing straps from tie-downs. Fix one end of each on some spot on the SB gunwale, run both straps under the CB (it can easily be "hooked" with a loop) and up to the other side of the boat (the straps now both form their own U in the CB trunk, with the CB resting in the cradle of the U).

Undo the CB bolts etc. depending on your model. Then gently pull on the straps and watch the CB rise. Have a helper lift it off. The reverse is equally easy, in fact there's enough control with two straps that you can align the CB fairly well in preparation for re-attaching it.

[Robbie]

My 1973 DS II centerboard has been a thorn in my side, which is one reason I keep it docked year round. So I can keep cb down and not worry with it. Recently I wanted to trailer it to another location, so I worked and worked then finally got cb up, then just for the hell of it, I thought it must be working ok, so pulled it down again. Now, it's stuck in partial down position. Worked with it another hour, until I pulled the pulley screws out in cuddy. So, parked it and will return with another project.

[talbot]

Two possibilities - 1. A cable is jammed between board and trunk. 2. The 1973 board delaminated and is now too fat for the trunk. I have a 73, and had the second problem. In any case you have to remove the board. Hope for the first problem. You can straighten the cable and install a bungee on the up haul to keep it from happening again. A board delam means replacement. About $600 for a new board from D&R.