Centerboard Uphaul and Downhaul Attachment

[LivetoSail]

Hi,

I have enjoyed reading the posts on this excellent forum even before I became a proud Daysailer owner.

Now that I have my own Daysailer II I have a question about, what else, the centerboard!

I removed the centerboard at the end of the season this year to get a good look at it, see for myself how the uphaul gets pinched between the board and the trunk, and replace the rubber washers that seal the bolt hole for the centerboard pivot.
Both centerboard wires were attached to the blocks with nicropress fittings and I was forced to cut the wires below the swages in order for the wires to fit through the trunk.

Since I cut the wires both the uphaul and downhaul are now too short to re-attach to the blocks. The wires on my centerboard do not attach to tangs on the board, they both enter the middle of the board through small holes and there is a 1" gray colored epoxy/filler circle near the top corner of the board.

I was hoping to find out how the wires are attached to the board beneath the filler and the best way to replace the wires. I'd like to avoid blindly drilling into the filler to see what I hit. Finally, I am wondering what I should use to fill the hole in the board once the new wires are installed.

When everything is put back together (before the beginning of the season next year ) I plan to use these fittings to connect the wires to the blocks so it will be easy to disconnect the wires in the future.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#5513T14

Thanks in advance for some of the great advice that fills this forum. As I continue to make improvements to my boat and get some more time in front of the tiller I hope to contribute my own experiences.

Jason

[jdoorly]

Hi Jason and welcome.

I have a '73 DS2 and it has the same CB layout as you. Inside the epoxy hole you'll find each wire end has a crimped stop and probably a flat washer to prevent the wire from pulling back through the channel. The system would work without the epoxy but at the cost of increased jamming, I think. The first time I had to replace the wire cables resulted in copying the way I found it and re-filling the hole with thickened epoxy. Since this method is not access and maintenance friendly the second time I re-did it I replaced the wires with 1/8" twisted 3-braid (nylon) that can be untied at either end. I did not re-fill the epoxy hole, and there is much less danger of jamming because you can't push rope like you can wire cable.

If you replace the cable with wire cable I suggest you get stainless steel so it won't rust, and also, to prevent a wire falling to the side of the CB and jamming- route both wires through a small circular cotter pin between the exits from the CB and the pass throughs of the CB case. This causes one wire to support the other so it can't fall and jam. Also also, replace both cables with 1/8" cable (one of the old cables is probably 3/32" and would jam easier). Also also also, If your CB downhaul exits the CB case approx. 18" aft of the bulkhead, like mine, the cable can, over time, saw into the fiberglass just below the exit fitting. The cable can jam there as well due to the sawing. I filed that area, then shaped and glued a small metal 'wear bar' to prevent 'sawing'.

I see your a McMaster fan too, and your idea of using disassembleable eyes on the cable ends is genius!

[LivetoSail]

Hi,

Thanks for the great suggestions! It's nice to have an idea what is waiting for me beneath that epoxy. You're right, the downhaul cable is 3/32", replacing it with 1/8" is a good idea. Also since you pointed it out, I do remember that the downhaul cable has sawed through the fiberglass, I will have to address that.

Again, thanks for the insight. You provided some details that I probably would have missed the first time around.

Jason