More information about this fix for centerboard leak

[rkinross]

centerboard diagram

centerboarddiagramjpg.jpg (33.07 KiB) Viewed 3937 times

Hi,

I have read the following fix for the centerboard uphaul/downhaul leak with the wire cutting thru the centerboard trunk.

Used a 3/4" metal pipe that I cut lengthwise into with a hacksaw to make a "hole threader". I then went to the hardware and bought a 1" long ABS plastic threated nipple with a nut fitting on the other end. (about $2) and capped that with a 1/2" end cap with a 1/8" inch hole in the end for the wire. I think it is used to couple a threaded pipe to a slip fit pipe. It stops all water from coming in to the cuddy. A simple threaded nipple would likely do the job also. About an inch long. The gap between the two fg hulls is only about 3/8" at the most, the thickness of each hull is 1/4" at most, so a total nipple length of 1" is really all you need. I liked the nut idea because it allow me to use a wrench to install it. Too simple!

I would like to do this repair but have a few questions about the above procedure. If anyone has done this repair I would appreciate a reply.

Question 1. How to remove the plastic o-ring that if on the forward end of the centerboard trunk that has the cable running thru it? (preferably not breaking it)

Question 2. What do you do with the 3/4 metal pipe hole threader listed as the first part of the fix? What am I trying to thread - the part where the plastic o-ring is currently inserted or the centerboard trunk where the fiberglass hull encases the centerboard?

Question 3. Once "threaded" do I leave the metal pipe in place or remove it to insert the 1" long abs plastic with a nut on the other end?





Thanks,
Bob

[rkinross]

Hi,
Can someone please help me out on this?
Thanks,
Bob

[TIM WEBB]

Would love to help Bob, but I'm not sure I'm really understanding the fix described. Photos would help a lot!

I will tell you that the plastic donut can be easily pried off, and it doesn't matter if you break it because it is not used for any of the methods for fixing this issue.

Bottom line is that what you are trying to do is isolate the bilge from any water that gets "pumped" into the UH channel. Keeping said water from squirting into the cuddy is a whole other issue ... ;-P

[ldeikis]

Hi Bob,

I wasn't piping up because I'm new here and I know a lot of other guys have more experience with this... But I just did this to my own boat, so let me share what I did.

I used the threaded nipple to thread both walls of glass... I'm not sure if the other people who have done this also thread that far, or if they're just threading the "inboard" layer of fiberglass and letting the nipple press securely against the inside. I realized I had started to thread the second layer, and figured it was better to just keep going. When I inserted the plastic nipple, I smeared a little silicone on it for good measure, then used channel locks to twist it in. It was pretty snug. My boat was upside down when I was doing this, so it was easy to look up into the trunk and see that it had emerged entirely into the trunk. This made a pretty tight seal from the water side of the centerboard trunk through to the cuddy.

However deep you decide to thread, you REMOVE the steel nipple and then thread the plastic one in its place. You're essentially using the steel nipple to tap threads for the plastic one to thread into. It's a tool more than a part of the repair.

Also, instead of drilling a hole in the cap for the cable to pass through, I cut a slit in it by putting it in a vice and sawing to about midway across. This allows the cap to be installed or removed without removing swages or clamps from the cable. It does leave the whole contraption a little more prone to letting water pass into the cuddy, but my issue right now is bilge water, and I hate things that are hard to take apart again. I suspect it would be easy to make a little seal by putting some silicone in that cap and letting it cure--the cable would likely be able to saw/tear loose, creating a very snug little seal within the ABS tube. But I didn't get there yet.

As far as the OEM donut--I don't know what that thing is made out of, probably different materials on different years. Mine was some kind of compressed woody crap, and it wasn't coming off without a dremel and careful but persistent cracking/prying with a large flat screwdriver. There's no way in heck that could have been removed intact. Your mileage may vary.

Best of luck.

Luke