DaySailer.org Forum

I finally have a fairly trustworthy 4hp merc with a brand new carb on starboard. I hate motoring. I am afraid of contact between prop and rudder so I steer with both (requires two hands). I've discovered, that, at least in light wind, it's easier to get started on a starboard broad reach so sail is out of the way. I've also noticed that a little cb makes boat more maneuverable.

Has anyone come up with a way to connect the rudder to the outboard for one hand steering?

Could you just remove the rudder when motoring? I realize that stowing the rudder could be a problem.

Thanks.

Of course, I would rather be sailing. However, motoring to and from the docks that I most frequently use makes the sailing experience far more pleasant. I have to deal with shallow, narrow, and rocky channels, with short docks and often with adverse wind conditions. My motor is either on or off, no neutral and no reverse (needs to be spun around for reverse). I do also steer with both, however, most of the time I would just be using the rudder. When maneuvering in close and needing to use both (this seems to work when it's relatively calm), the addition of a tiller tamer really helped the situation. The tension on my motor swivel is set so that it stays put without me holding on, the same with the tiller tamer. That way though I am using both I really am using them alternately and don't need my hand on both at the same time.

Because of my narrow rocky channels with very unpredictable wind because of the islands, I almost always leave the dock with my sails down. I motor to deeper water and clearer air before raising sails. With the motor and tiller set I can go forward and raise sails while motoring. The same thing in reverse for preparing to dock, while motoring I drop the sails.

I have found that planning ahead while approaching a dock and talking to my crew (if I have one) about what I am doing helps considerably. If it is an unfamiliar dock or a crowded dock I often do a survey pass before final approach. At the dock to deal with this situation I have permanently attached docking lines that are 15 feet long on both stern cleats and the bow cleat. This allows me to maneuver the boat at the dock by using the docking lines (standing on the dock), including turning the boat around to leave the dock. It also allows me to have two docking lines in hand as I approached the dock so that I can jump off and wrap lines around a post. To maintain maneuverability I often need to come in kind of hot to maintain steerage or I will drift into the rocks. My margin of error is often very small. I do keep the centerboard down halfway. I approach the dock at about a 30° angle so that I know I have enough momentum to get to the dock and then use the rudder to turn just as I reach the dock. I time it so that I kill the motor just at the time that I can glide up to the dock just using the rudder to maneuver, step off and wrap the lines around a post. In my situation I tend to error on the side of a little more speed and using the docking lines to stop the boat rather than risk drifting out of control. It definitely has taken practice to make it look elegant.

I hope this helps to make your motoring more pleasant.

Tipster, everything KC said is right on the mark. It only takes a few trials to learn not to hit the rudder with the prop! I keep the tension adjustment on my outboard cranked as tight as it will go. The boat will hold a course but maneuvering with the engine is not impaired. I can make gradual turns with the rudder alone. In your case with the engine to starboard, you can make turns to port as sharp as you want without interference. My tiller tamer is just a shock cord stretched between the coamings and a cleat on the underside of the tiller. Having the board down definitely helps the boat stay on course, particularly with a crosswind. Don't take the rudder off -- you may need it in a hurry if the outboard fails.

Remember that when you back up the prop wash will tend to steer the stern of the boat to port, even with the engine centered. Read Chapman's Piloting, Seamanship, and Small Boat Handling for lessons on using the engine plus spring lines to maneuver at a dock.

Tiller tamer is on my list, for sure.

I vaguely remember a gadget that attached to plate above prop that protruded and kept rudder from contacting prop, but I would rather avoid drilling holes in the motor anywhere to attach this. I can picture some sort of stick that connects boat tiller and motor tiller, almost like a tiny hiking stick.

I've heard of spinning motor 180 for reverse, but I can't quite imagine doing this quickly. Impressive!

The online course I had to take to get the power boat certificate required in NJ, actually had a lot of info about docking, with winds on shore, side shore and off shore.

I thought prop walk was more prominent in inboards with slanted drive shaft. Outboards, too?

I have a four HP motor on my Mariner and after dinging my new rudder with the prop, I attached a guard around the prop. (see attached) It is made to improve the efficiency of the motor, but works great as a guard.

If you look at page 64 of Roger Conrad's book "Understanding, Maintaining and Repairing you O'Day Daysailer II" he shows a peg that's added to the motor stabilizer fin to prevent the prop from coming into contact with the rudder. If you don't have that book buy it, great info for your DS.

"I thought prop walk was more prominent in inboards with slanted drive shaft. Outboards, too?"

Tipster, I think you are more correct than I. I was thinking of the inboard boat my dad had many years ago. However, apparently the physics are complicated and outboards can have prop walk also. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Propeller_walk

rnlivingston, where did you get the neat guard?

Thanks all. Now I know where I saw the peg thing. Roger's book! I just found prop guard on westmarine site. Search prop saver. Will research further to see what's involved with installation.

Just one comment. I don't think walking forward with a DS under power is wise. It's relatively unstable without sail and falling off would be serious with a prop turning. I'm lucky to have room to hoist with the boat adrift. If you don't I suggest at least a main halyard led aft for housing under power.

Dont worry. I don't intend to let go of tiller with running motor on a small boat. Once I get jib dowser or roller furling rigged, plus some bungies for main, then it's drift and drop if I am single handed sailing. But that's not my plan.
Next addition will be tiller tamer.

njsurfboat wrote:Just one comment. I don't think walking forward with a DS under power is wise. It's relatively unstable without sail and falling off would be serious with a prop turning. I'm lucky to have room to hoist with the boat adrift. If you don't I suggest at least a main halyard led aft for housing under power.

The DS is the most stable dinghy I've sailed. And the only one that will let me pass the mast without capsizing (not under sail). In flat water, I would have no problem going anywhere on the boat w/ the trolling motor running or not. The sail as stabilizer is, of course, a real effect, but really only works that way going upwind. (Going downwind, sails can be source of instability). Some lakes are like swimming pools with criss-crossing motorboat wakes. I would not advise any expeditions to the foredeck in those conditions, motor or not.

Karl Teske recommends Roger Conrad "Understanding, Maintaining, Repairing Your Oday." Any suggestions on where to find this book? Could not find it on line.

Roger posted this in February of this year:

Roger wrote:Yes, books are still available as PDF downloads. E-mail me at roger.conrad@mts.net for details.

I emailed Roger this weekend, paid, and had the book within half an hour. Well worth the $20.