Track Stop For Boom

[TIM WEBB]

I use the original horn cleats at the mast. I may add a way to tension the jib halyard with a purchase (a setup I have on another boat). However, I haven't run into situations where I've wanted to make changes in halyard tension while underway. So the need to route these into the cockpit has always escaped me.

Therefore, I'm standing in the front of the cockpit when I raise sails, and I'm pulling down, not out. That may influence the way I approach the whole operation.

Now, why swivel blocks?

Ah, that's right, horn cleats. Makes sense now. I like being able to raise/lower sails from a seated or kneeling position in the cockpit rather than from a position near the mast, so I replaced the horns with bullet blocks at the mast base and camcleats on the cuddy lip. But then I added the vang, and the halyards interfered with it, so I went to the swivels. While I don't necessarily adjust halyard tension while sailing, I might raise/reef/lower sail a number of times on any given trip, and I usually do that while hove to, when the boat can be a bit "rolly", hence the desire to not be standing. Just last weekend on the St. Johns River at Palatka, during the roughly 5 mile sail to the restaurant and back, I think I put in/shook out a reef about four times!

Agreed on low-stretch halyards, but I've never had a "gust stretch" plain old Sta-set or the like.

Sure about that? Would you be able to tell? I know that with my earlier halyards, I could feel a definite "give" when I pulled on them. And that was with diameters much larger than I have now. I see less windage and have less weight aloft with the new ones.

Now, I readily admit, a big part of the motivation was the challenge of making new halyards, splicing Amsteel and Amsteel with double braid. A fun winter project.

I think one could tell by a quick glance at the luff? I've never seen any scalloping develop during a puff. Maybe a tiny bit on the jib, since it does not have a wire luff (perhaps a purchase would be in order there). Nevertheless, I *have* been thinking about hybrid Spectra/Sta-Set halyards anyway, if for no other reason than the weight/windage aloft issue. I would probably splice a loop in the Spectra, and just tie the Sta-Set to the loop, since the connection wouldn't need to go through the sheaves/blocks (I don't think?). At least as a down 'n' dirty way to try it out first.

[TIM WEBB]

Thanks for the shout out DM, but I'm afraid I can't take credit for the idea. I stole it from a previous guy, who prolly stole it from somebody before him, etc etc etc.

Well, you are the last guy that thought of it, before I thought that I thought of it... So, because you thought of it last, I am giving you the credit on this one, lol.

Okay, okay ... ;-P

[DigitalMechanic]

No problem Sounds like you have it all sorted out.

The track stop thing is "set and forget" for me. I just found where it wanted to live, tightened it real good, and left it in place. It has not moved (at least for me), not even when trailering. So, I really have not thought about it much since (until now). One less thing to do when setting up and tearing down.

Thanks for confirming the block on my mast "formerly know as topping lift" is for the spinnaker (I won't tear it off then). I am still working up my sailing skills, so I have not graduated to "spinnaker level" yet. But, that will be one less hole in the mast and block to buy when I finally do

Previously the value that was provided to me by that block was for my "redneck mast winch" thing that I do, whereas I use the trailer winch's hook lashed to the carabiner that was on that line to crank the mast forward so I could put the forestay in.

[GreenLake]

Spinnaker is an entirely different topic. I must say I quite enjoy flying one (esp. in moderate to light winds) even when single handed. I have a number of cruising destinations that regularly have very deep reaches/runs given the prevailing winds, and a spinnaker makes that so much more fun.

[GreenLake]

@Tim: when you replace the jib halyard, end it in a loop to which you fit a block. Size the halyard so that the block gets pulled down (nearly) all the way to the bottom. Then you can use your old Sta-Set to rig a 2:1 purchase. That would allow you better control of the luff tension on the jib.

Good point about wrinkles in the luff. I'm usually too busy in a strong gust to look up.

[jeadstx]

Greenlake, I agree that the spinnaker hardware and lines are different altogether. I just set those up on my boat, but have yet to raise the spinnaker. Waiting for a light air day to try to figure it all out.

My boat also uses a topping lift, but differs from others in that I added a tang to the top of the mast head. To that I attached 3/32" cable (part of an old Mariner backstay from my dad's boat) that extends to about 3' from the end of the boom. There is a loop in the end of the cable. I attach a small block to the loop using a hook attachment (to make it easily removable when rigging/de-rigging) . A small line (3/16") is attached to the end of the boom, runs thru the small block and then back down to an eye loop attached to the boom. A small horn cleat is installed to cleat it to. When cleated, it holds the boom up, it is not cleated for sailing. Sounds more complicated than it is, but works great.

I have slugs on the luff of my main sail and use a track stop. I plan to add a "Mast Gate" like Tim uses as well. I put a Mast Gate on my Mariner and really like it, especially now that I found a good way to "lock" it to prevent the occasional times it came off.

John

[TIM WEBB]

I have slugs on the luff of my main sail and use a track stop. I plan to add a "Mast Gate" like Tim uses as well. I put a Mast Gate on my Mariner and really like it, especially now that I found a good way to "lock" it to prevent the occasional times it came off.

John

Oh, do tell! Or show, if you have pics?

I've found that the best way to keep the gate from popping open is to simply keep the slot and slugs well lubed with "B'laster" dry lube.

[TIM WEBB]

@Tim: when you replace the jib halyard, end it in a loop to which you fit a block. Size the halyard so that the block gets pulled down (nearly) all the way to the bottom. Then you can use your old Sta-Set to rig a 2:1 purchase. That would allow you better control of the luff tension on the jib.

Good point about wrinkles in the luff. I'm usually too busy in a strong gust to look up.

Might just have to do that w/ the jib halyard.

I'm never too busy to check sail trim ... <grin>

[K.C. Walker]

Ok, Tim I've got Blaster Dry Lube on the list. John, I'm hoping that you fill us in on your tip to keep it closed. Mine works most of the time, but it's really frustrating when one of the slugs pops out while raising sail in a stiff breeze.

[TIM WEBB]

K.C., I seem to have more of a problem with slugs popping out when *lowering* the main. The dry lube helps them drop smoothly without having to pull down on the sail. If the pull down becomes a pull back at all, out they come. I've also tweaked the lip of the gate a bit with pliers to help it stay closed. I still like the gate better than fiddling with a slug stop though. Don't ask me how many of those I dropped, and of course bounced out of the boat, before I got the gate! ;-P

[K.C. Walker]

Tim,
For me, the sail stop count was three strikes you're out! I have crimped the ends with pliers and made little notches in the aluminum track to try to get everything to line up perfectly, but as you say, if there's any back pressure it tends to hang and open the gate… going up or down. And yes, I definitely prefer it to the sail stop. I thought about a small thumbscrew… But, we know where that one's going to end up.

The situation that I find most frustrating is heading up into the wind to raise sail when it's blowing over 10 and I'm single-handed. It usually just drops the bottom one or two slugs. Because of the conditions, I usually just sail with those popped out until I can get to somewhere a little less hectic.

When I moved the gate from my old mast to my replacement mast I drilled the holes for the bungee cord further back from the gate… with no effective difference. It does work well enough that I have not gone to any extreme measures to fix it. I have thought about replacing the bungee with a non-stretch line and have it go to a clamcleat.… Or drilling a small hole and adding a light non-stretch line to the back edge and running that to a cleat.

[jeadstx]

I thought about several ways to fix the mast gate slippage problem for a while. Finally decided on a fix that I thought might work and it seems to be working out well. My mast gate has a 1/4" hole in the center. I bought a 1/4-20 thumb screw, marked the hole on the mast, drilled and tapped it. To keep the thumb screw from ending up over the side, I drilled a hole in the upper part to attach a small lanyard (waxed nylon harness thread) and tied the lanyard to one of the elastic bands on the mast gate. I also have a spare thumb screw and lanyard in my tool box. I put the mast gate in place, screw in the thumb screw and it stays in place and works the way it is suppose to work. Nothing has gotten snagged on it so far.

I'm storing the sail on the boom with a sail cover right now while the boat is in a slip. I haven't had to mess with it and it hasn't come off. So far, so good. I was at the boat yesterday with a camera, but forgot to take a picture of it. I'll try this weekend.

John

[K.C. Walker]

Thanks John! The lanyard idea is brilliant. Why didn't I think of that…

[itguy1010]

Since this thread has taken a life of its own I'll present this question:

Has anyone tried one of these? Seems like the ticket for what I'm looking for. I really have no need (yet) for a gate since my main is really old (as in original equipment) and has no slugs. When I buy a new main next season I'm going to have slugs put in and an extra reefing point.

Its called the "QRTS" (Quick Release Track Stop):

qrts.jpg (239.8 KiB) Viewed 8726 times

[DigitalMechanic]

I really don't think you are going to move that thing once you set it (I know I have not). The stopper you were looking at previously is only a couple of bucks. Not sure what that one costs. If price is negligible, it looks like you will get the same job done but with a lever instead of a twist. I would say it is really all about what you prefer and want to spend