by jsbowman6 » Thu Jun 09, 2016 5:44 pm
Red,
I did the same thing a few weeks ago and members here suggested the following that I put together in sort of a checklist that I compiled from all the responses I got:
The only place where "rot" may occur would be in backing plates where hardware is installed, easily repairable however and does not compromise the boat. I had to replace the wood backing plates on my jib tracks (located on inside of the rails near the cuddy cabin bulkhead). I installed an inspection port to redo the tracks on each side.
If the auto bailer is original (bronze) it might need replacing.
A 1975 boat will have a centerboard bolt, accessible thru the cockpit inspection ports at the forward end of the cockpit near the cuddy cabin bulkhead.
Check the shrouds/stays and running rigging. The original shrouds/stays were 3/32" wire, the upgraded ones are 1/8".
Check the sheaves in the blocks for wear.
Tilt trailers are common.
Check the condition of the sails. I would think that 2 year old sails should be in good shape (my Intensity Sails are three years old now).
Check for hull deformation based on wrong storage (shallow dents from narrow bunks / trailer rollers). Also check whether laminate is soft near these supports.
Remedy is involved, tricky and not necessarily always successful.
Mast: make sure it's straight and the correct length (25' as measured from the keelson, not from the deck). Ditto for the boom (straightness - booms are less likely to have been cut because of prior damage). A deflection in the mast of, say, less than 1" measured at the tip, due a shallow bend would be something you could live with as is, anything more, esp. hard kinks are tricky. Deeper bends, if shallow, may be repairable, but sometimes people snap their mast trying to do that.
Deck/hull separation. If near the front, may indicate a problem with the anchoring of the forestay. Fixable by making an inspection port in the deck and working through that. BUT: don't sail the boat w/o a fix. Other areas: can be re-glued/re-sealed with moderate effort.
Chain plates: any sign of them pulling out/through: fixable, but do not sail the boat until done.
Large cracks/soft spots in laminate. If localized,can be fixed with good outcome. (Small cracks/crazing are/is generally cosmetic on these boats.)
Standing rigging: wires, rivets, etc. Kinks in wires, split wires: replace with new set. Check tangs and rivets. Fix any issues before sailing. Mast sheaves: easy to replace, minor.
Running rigging: all running rigging is a consumable - you will need to replace all of it over time, so it's like tires on a use car. In good shape justifies a bit higher price, in bad shape, haggle more. (Sails the same - some people will by new sails more often than running rigging (racers) other less often (cruisers) you get the idea).
Foils: (rudder and keel) if free of obvious damage, fine. If structural cracks/bent they need to be replaced or rebuilt. If chipped/surface cracks should be faired & painted. Moderate effort and not needed before your test sail. Check rudder gudgeons/pinions for signs of grounding (bent). Easy fix.
Check tiller for cracks and how soon you'll need to refinish it. Give demerit points based on that - any structural cracks: fix before taking out the boat.
Uphaul and downhaul for the centerboard. They can be a bit finicky on a DS and a source of the centerboard jamming. Definitely open the inspection ports on either side of the centerboard trunk and inspect the ends of the bolt (hopefully they are clean - if so, the bolt and washers are easily replaced if needed). The foils are the centerboard and the rudder. The latter is easy to inspect, of course. The CB you won't be able to see much other than the leading edge if you crawl under the boat.
The bilge should be reasonably dry.
I can't see a bow eye and wonder if it got pulled out. You can install an inspection plate in the front of the cuddy to access that.
The boat looks to be in pretty good shape. The halyards look like they have been replaced at some point, although the main halyard may still have wire? I don't see too many bumps and bruises on the hull in the pics. I speculate that the bilge drain has been replaced based on the pic that shows the transom.
I can't see a bow eye and wonder if it got pulled out. You can install an inspection plate in the front of the cuddy to access that. There is some extra hardware on top of the cuddy - not sure what for. Price seems to be decent with the motor and good trailer. Maybe some bargaining room. Good luck.
General
On a DSII you'll eventually want to review/fix up and downhaul, but that's a given on these boats - if the one you're looking at had all the aftermarket fixes done and done well, you're lucky. I think it's hard to tell from an inspection, because issues involve how much water can leak where during certain types of sailing. That said, anytime you can test-sail a boat you are better off; if not be sure to take someone experienced with you on the maiden voyage to help handle the stuff that inevitably breaks...
Good luck. Generally, these boats are eminently repairable, so not much is a true issue to walk away from, except to minimize the needed effort before you can take her out the first time. Enjoy!
D&R Marine, they have all the parts for the Day Sailers (I, II, & III). Of course, since Cape Cod Shipbuilding is the current builder of the Day Sailer they have parts as well.
As John wrote, on these boats, most things are fixable with moderate time/effort - some defects are a reason to haggle a bit more, but not necessarily a reason to walk, unless you really need a ready-to-sail boat. A few issue require more intensive/costly repairs or are effectively something you'd have to live with. (Or if you accept them, know that you need to fix the boat before you can sail it, even if the fix isn't especially costly).