Moving jib sheet tracks and cleats

[pbobbitt]

Thanks for the input. I'll post a pick when I get the new ones installed. we are having a small boat raid this weekend...

[GreenLake]

Sure, pix would be nice.

I thought about recommending cutting down the track, but you need to coat the exposed ends or you'll get corrosion started. Aluminum will form a skin on its own, but it's not going to be as good as the one they create when anodizing it.

I paid much less than "over $200" even in 2023 dollars, because I know about saving money - for better sails

[pbobbitt]

Yo.

Installed jib track.

Used the Ronstan 25 t-track and composite car. Jib block is a harkin Ratchet block.

The starboard side used through bolts all the way through, the port side had good wood for ther first four screws, through-bolted for the most forward.

[GreenLake]

Looks good.

[Rodrad1941]

I am new Daysailer owner and new member. On my 1977 DSII the jib cleats are on the tracks on the coaming. I don’t understand how to efficiently use cleats. Are they possibly because of different jib sail sizes? Mine is a standard size.
Would like to get info how my “traveling” clears need to be used.

Thank you,
Rod

[GreenLake]

Welcome to the forum.

Depending on your level of background, you may want to look into this thread for some of the basics.e

Specifically for the jib tracks: they allow you to change the angle at which the jib sheet pulls on the clew of the jib. With the cleat moved back along the track, the pull is more horizontal. More tension will be on the foot of the sail compared to the leech.

This allows the top of the sail to blow out, creating twist in the sail. You would choose that in strong winds to depower the sail, but you can also use it in very light winds, because then, the wind direction experienced at different heights above the deck will be different (see "Basic Concepts and Techniques").

For moderate to moderately strong winds, the jib cleats would be moved forward, so the jib sheet pulls down and helps tension the leech (back edge) of the sail.

You should experiment a bit on the water to see whether you can tell a difference. Don't be disappointed if the differences prove to be a bit subtle. That's not unusual about sail trim -- most people will get better over time and know when a sail looks right.

[CentralCoastSailor]

On my DSII I mounted a turning block as far outboard on the side "deck" as possible and then to a spinlock swivel cleat (it is a swivel base PXR). I also run barber haulers on top of the cuddy, so the sheeting angle is determined by barber hauler position and the turning block and jib sheet cleat are in fixed positions. The spinlock is on top of the combing just aft of where there crew's butt would be when hiking. The BIG reason for the spinlock is that the amount of upward thrust you need to release them is adjustable. Most DS capsizes come from a sheeted JIB and a gust overpowering the boat and the crew then hiking so far out they cannot release the cleat. These beauties just need an upward flick of the wrist and they'll uncleat. VERY NICE - I'll take a couple of pics when I go to the YC later today and post them.