Repair questions

Topics primarily or specifically about the DS2. Many topics are of general interest, so please use forum sections on Rigging, Sails, etc. where appropriate.

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Repair questions

Postby Guest » Sat Sep 19, 1998 12:00 am

I have just purchased a '73 DS II. There are no other daysailers in the immediate area, so there are a few questions I would like to ask.
The mainsail halyard sheaves at the top of the mast need replacement. They are in a cast aluminum cap, the sheaves are permanently pinned and the alum. cap is pop rivetted. How do I change the sheaves? Do I have to replace the whole cap?
How do you change the other blocks? None have removeable pins like most Harken blocks today.
What can anyone tell me about flotation on this year and model? Will it turtle and can it be righted? There are foam blocks in the bow - I guess the sides are "airtight."
Thanks for any help.

Terry Peterson (JTerryP-at-aol.com)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Wed Sep 08, 1999 12:00 am

I just bought a '73 daysailer and have the same questions relating to flotation. Mine has only a couple of foam blocks in the bow. Should there be more?

Bob Pierce (bob-at-bobware.com)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Sat Jul 15, 2000 12:00 am

Boat supply houses like E&M sell foam that you can install as a liquid through the
drain plug and it expands in side he tank. We found the problem with bits of
scrap styrofoam etc is they must be encapsulated. So the fumes from the fibreglas,
which never quits curing, doesnt dissolve the foam you have installed.
I think there is a foam that is not effected by fiberglas but it aint syrofoam.
If I am not mistake fiberglas curing releases acetone.

warren mathisen (wmathise-at-sowega.net)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Mon Jul 17, 2000 12:00 am

To remove/replace the sheaves at the masthead, first drill out the rivets, then when you put the new sheaves in, install them with clevis pins. I did this on my old O'Day Widgeon and it worked fine. For other blocks you can do the same, but you may have to grind off the heads of the stainless steel axles (rivets), and again use clevis pins when you reassemble them. One thing to check when you replace sheaves, you may find that you also need to replace the bearing, this may just be a stainless or bronze (or other metal)bushing.
FLOTATION; there is more that enough foam in a DS II to keep the boat afloat if she springs a leak, several of us have found that out! If a Day Sailer should capsize, there is a very real possibility that she will turn turtle. However, if sailed with proper care and caution there is no reason that you will ever capsize, unless you race very competitively. Always sail a centerboard boat like a DS with the mainsheet in your hand! Yes, use the camcleat to hold the tension, but keep the mainsheet in your hand...that way you can quickly release the sheet and spill the wind if a gust hits. I have been sailing my DS II for 4 seasons on Buzzards Bay singlehanded, and have not come close to going over yet, I sailed the Widgeon for 7 seasons and never capsized. A further tip, get a tiller extension (hiking stick), you will be amazed at how much more upright the boat sails with even one person on the side deck!

Rod Johnson (rjohnson24-at-juno.com)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Mon Jul 17, 2000 12:00 am

A little further explaination, you drill out the rivets or pins that act as axles for the blocks to replace them.
On capsizing, yes the boat can be righted by standing on the extended centerboard and pulling on the gunwale.
No, I've never tried this, but have seen pictures of the racing sailers doing it.

Rod Johnson (rjohnson24-at-juno.com)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Tue Aug 29, 2000 10:39 pm

When my DSII capsized and turtled last year it was a bear to get the centerboard out of the trunk because it kept wanting to fall back in. Then it took two of us big burly guys to stand on the centerboard to flip it. We had the additional problem that the inner hull section was filled with about 60 gallons of water from a centerboard-hull crack!

John Heckman (megjdh-at-widomaker.com)
Guest
 


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