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DS3

PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 1:10 pm
by avast
I picked one up am trying to figure out the uphaul bungee placement. Does this look right?
dsbunji.JPG
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thanks for any help

Re: DS3

PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 10:48 pm
by TIM WEBB
It should go between the forward attachment you have it on and a becket on the UH shackle, but I can't tell from the pic if there is a becket on that block?

However, it's really not that necessary if you just keep tension on both up and downhauls when adjusting the CB height.

Re: DS3

PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 5:39 pm
by avast
Not sure what a becket is but there is a lower swivel that the cord hook goes through
closeup.JPG
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Is that what you meant?
I just want to be sure I have the cord connected at the right points, i need all the help i can get to keep things idiot-proof or in my case idiot-resistant,
thanks for the help

Re: DS3

PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 8:11 pm
by TIM WEBB
No, what I mean is that you have it attached to the downhaul, and you want to attach it to the uphaul. Specifically, to the block that is attached to the UH cable, directly behind the cuddy sole eye you have the forward end of your bungee attached to. A becket is a U-shaped shackle attached to a block. That one has one for the UH cable, but I can't tell from the first pic whether there is a second one present on that block?

Re: DS3

PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2015 2:48 pm
by avast
OK I put it as i believe you said
DSCN1898.JPG
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It looks too long with the board up, i read somewhere it is supposed to be 14" long. I will see how it looks when it goes back in the water.
Thanks for the tip on tying off both lines, seems like a good idea.

Re: DS3

PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2015 11:58 pm
by TIM WEBB
OK, now you're smellin' what I'm steppin' in! ;-P

Now, the bungee doesn't need to be nearly that thick. See if you can get something more like 1/8" or 3/16" at the most. The idea is just to keep tension on the UH cable at all times so it stays on top of the CB instead of going slack and slipping off to one side. Of course, you can achieve the same result by keeping tension on both UH and DH lines at all times, so the bungee isn't really needed at all. Also, good to see that the block does indeed have a becket, and so you can just do away with the hooks on each end, and tie the bungee directly to the eyestrap and becket - no need for the hooks. It's a permanent thing, but will need replacing over time as the bungee looses it's bungeeness (is that even a word?)

Re: DS3

PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 11:31 am
by avast
I will try using thinner shock cord when she goes back in the water, thanks for the tip.

My next rigging question involves the mainsheet. It seems to hang up a little on the trailer when pushing the boom around, haven't tried it on the water yet with wind in the sail. I am wondering if I have it routed right, here is a pic
mainsheet.JPG
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Another possiblity is the rope itself too thick, or maybe too old? It is also about 20' long after running through the blocks shown, do I need the mainsheet to be longer than the boat? I like to keep things simple and uncluttered...

Re: DS3

PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 9:54 am
by TIM WEBB
Your routing looks correct, and the line thickness is about what most DS's seem to have, and what D&R sells as replacement. The only difference being that there is usually a small loop spliced into the end that terminates on the block. The knot you have there could be causing the hangup? Maybe either splice a loop, or use a different/smaller type of knot, closer to the block?

As far as sheet length goes, you really only need enough so that the boom can swing out to the side just shy of contacting the shrouds before the figure 8 knot you (should) have on the other end of the sheet hits the cam cleat/fairlead.

Re: DS3

PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 2:15 am
by jeadstx
I use 3/8" line for my mainsheet instead of the standard 5/16" line. The length of line in the specs is 45' as I recall, but that is for a DS I with a Crosby rig. When I put new line on my DS II with the mid boom sheeting, I used 37' of line. 20' of mainsheet line is too short.

The knot that attaches to the becket on the block should be shorter or replaced with an eye splice as mentioned by Tim. Old line or swollen line may be causing some of your problem.

John

Re: DS3

PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 12:09 pm
by K.C. Walker
The friction of line running through blocks comes from several sources, one of which many don't realize. There is the obvious friction of a line that's too large rubbing on the cheeks of the block or the line touching and rubbing against each other, there's the bearing surface of the sheave, in this case not ball bearing so somewhat more friction, especially when loaded. AND, double braid line has a lot of internal friction going around the sheave, again especially when loaded. The general rule is the sheave should be eight times the diameter of the line that goes around it for minimal friction. So a 3" block for a 3/8" line.

I have been using New England Ropes Buzz line for a number of years and like how well it runs through the blocks. This line only requires a sheave to be five times the diameter for minimal friction therefore the 8mm, which I find pretty comfortable, only requires a 40 mm block (I went with Harken). It would seem like this small diameter line would be uncomfortable, but it's actually not bad. Without having to fight the additional friction plus the load to haul in on the line and because it's a supple braid it's not digging into your hand like a hard double braid would on those high wind days. On light air days, the boom mostly swings out without having to push it, because there is so little friction.

Re: DS3

PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 4:07 pm
by jeadstx
You should also check the condition of the block sheaves. Make sure they move freely and have not started to deteriorate.

John