DaySailer.org Forum

I usually position myself as far forward as possible to keep weight off the transom (less drag) but was wondering... With a wide transom and this particular hull shape would it be best to sit as far back in heavy winds to keep the flattest part down in order to keep the boat more "stable"?

TIA,

John

For high winds my favorite position for stability is hiked out using hiking straps. When close hauled I move forward and when reaching and running I move back. If the boat is planing I move way back.

I assume you move back when planing to get the bow up?

John

I've found that the Outboard Well works very nicely for the skipper to sit his rear in while the crew hikes on port gybe in a blow. Otherwise we hike while moving fore and aft to keep the bow just far enough up.

Yes, I do move back to get the bow up for planing. However, Mike's description is more accurate in that I move forward or back to get the bow just high enough, and it is a balancing act.

Mike, I know the rules don't allow removing an outboard well but how about adding one?

The Day Sailer is a big old surfboard that in certain conditions planes better than a lot of other fast one design classes. Several times I've watched Dave Keran head-up 10-15 degrees above rhumbline course while reaching or running to quickly pop-up on a plane, then dive down below rhumbline planing away from the rest of the fleet repeating the process again and again. If you can go 50-100% faster than the rest of the fleet for extended periods by planing then spending a little to make a lot of distance on the fleet is a great idea! Effective planing is a constant coordination by the skipper and crew of fore/aft trim, heel, sail trim of all three sails and quick reaction of the skipper to wind and waves/chop to get the Day Sailer up on a plane and then keep it there as long as possible. As the boat goes faster, the apparent wind goes forward allowing the skipper to head off, but as you head off you have to consider the action of the wind and waves/chop to keep the Day Sailer up on a plane with quick "stabs" to weather if your bow or speed starts to drop to accelerate agin and start the process over again. Practice in planing or near planing conditions is the only way to learn how to go fast.

Thanks Mike!

That was an absolutely great description. I would love to see that done firsthand. Sitting here with snow on the ground I'm going to practice that several more times by visualizing, because it feels so good. I can't wait to get back on the water and practice for real!

Mike Gillum wrote:The Day Sailer is a big old surfboard that in certain conditions planes better than a lot of other fast one design classes.

Can you elaborate a bit on what these certain conditions are - what's the minimum wind, typical angles to the wind, and does one require a spinnaker?

Sorry GreenLake for the tardy reply!
The Daysailer will easily plane in 12-15 knots jib reaching with the wind just behind the beam.
It'll also plane broad reaching or running with the spinnaker but that requires coordination between the skipper driving the boat down the crests of the waves and around the troughs while the crew trims the spinnaker to match the course changes.
Racing and/or practicing in conditions that allow you to plane are recommended as well as understanding fore/aft weight placement by the skipper & crew that will affect planing.
Weight too far aft and the transom digs in acting like a brake but too far forward and the bow digs in and the shortish Daysailer rudder rises out of the water decreasing effectiveness.
Top of the fleet will see constant movement fore/aft and side to side by both the skipper and crew as the wind or waves change.
Trim of the main is in coordination with movement of the hiking stick/tiller/rudder. Normally if you pull on one you ease the other and vice versa.

Thanks for the detailed explanation, Mike. We are a bit wind starved here, so most days it would not reach 12 - which unfortunately also means we don't get the chance to practice much in those conditions.

Just means we need to make the best out of those occasions and that starts with really improving our game in whatever winds we do get, so that we can focus on the new modes the higher winds open up, when we have the chance.

Your final point about simultaneous control of sheet/rudder is well taken. Just the other day I read somebody's description of the "back of the fleet" sailors as being those who subconsciously either do one or the other. I've resolved to watch what I'm doing there more closely.

When merely daysailing or cruising the temptation is strong to cleat the main sheet and just do everything with the tiller, and I suspect I've picked up some not-so-fast habits that way....

Old habits die hard and bad habits are virtually impossible to break!
Or something to that affect.
Last weekend at Lake Yosemite was predominately light air with the mystery gust thrown in from time to time to keep you on your toes.
One minute we're starved for a breath of air and moments later we're planing.
I cleat the mainsheet but it stays in my hand at all times to allow for quick adjustment as the conditions or movement of the boat changes.
Even if you think the the conditions are "consistent" the sails are experiencing different conditions than you might feel just feet above your head.
In light to medium conditions you want to minimize movement of the tiller and that is accomplished through weight placement by hiking or moving fore/aft in conjunction with sail trim.
Always assume that the rudder is a speed brake in just about all conditions if moved more than 5 degrees off centerline.

Mike Gillum wrote:Old habits die hard and bad habits are virtually impossible to break!
Or something to that affect.

Yep. That's what makes it a challenge.

Usually, I get a light amount of weather helm going upwind, I guess that means the rudder is inside those 5° of deflection. I plan on focusing on my gust response, because my reflex is just to head up - and on my tacks. Getting them consistent, so I don't rush them with too much rudder and stop, or the opposite.

First step will be a longer tiller extension. Mine's too short to use easily when I sit fully forward. And it's short enough that it wedges easily between coaming and tiller. Any suggestions on optimal length?