trailer specs

[Peter McMinn]

Hi folks:
I am getting rid of my overbuilt, homemade monstrocity of a trailer. Downsizing to something I can maneuver around the club lot by hand, and save on gas on the long hauls. The thing about my old dinosaur is that it was custom made to the same DS1 (probably 40 years ago) and has superb hull support, with 10.5' 2x6 padded bunks. I'm trading to a lighter Caulkins trailer with wobble-rollers, which I'll be replacing with hull-conforming bunk boards.

Here's the question: what's the procedure for planning a new bunk arrangement on the trailer? There must be a little experience out there with this. Are there some resources I should be aware of? Pics and DIMENSIONS would be much appreciated.

If I could figure out how to add a jpeg of the trailer I'm getting, I'd do it!

[Dave]

Peter,
I am doing the same thing right now. I just destroyed my trailer by taking it apart. Needs new tires, wheels, wiring, galvanizing spray for metal, rollers, and bunks. I have no idea how to work the bunks out. I was thinking of using the engine lift method to hang my boat over my trailer and work it from there.

Also, I talked with a fiberglass repair shop and they recommended a new vendor for f/g repairs. www.minicraft.com . The price for a quart of gelcoat is about $10 higher than for any of the paint products I have seen.
Don't know yet if I'll use them, but they do seem to be helpful on the phone. (Jacksonville, Fl)

Dave

[jackson2191]

How are you planning on getting "hull-conforming bunk boards"? I've seen these on larger sailboats and I assumed they were simple 2 x 4's that had been bent by the weight of the boat. I thought the Daysailer wouldn't have enough weight to bend any 2 x 4 that I know of.

[Peter McMinn]

Right. Well the bunks on my present trailer were bolted into brackets that brought the boards down into proper shape amidship. The 10.5' boards are supported by brackets welded to the outer trailer frame afore, amid, & aft. The boards are mounted at exactly the camber of the hull, a general 30 degree angle. Someone down in central Cal went to a lot of work to do this as the brackets are not adjustable, but welded.

To answer your question, I'm planning on shaping the bunks on the new trailer in the same way, except with the more adjustable brackets now available.

Anyway, I guess to refine my question: does anyone have experience with the various bunk brackets out there and which ones might serve best? Brand names would help.

I'm open to alternatives.

[Dave]

Peter,
I just installed adjustable bunk braces on my trailer. 2 parts and a 1x6 Pressure Treated board per brace. I installed the adjustable braces with the board drilled and bolted. The first part is adjustable to the angle of the boat to fit the bottom of the boat. The bunk board is attached by screws that are counter sunk into the board and eventually covered with indoor/outdoor carpet to keep it slick. This adjustable brace is then bolted to the adjustable bunk brace. The bunk brace is secured to the trailer with 1 square U-bolt, bolted around the frame of the trailer. I am keeping it loose for right now so I may slide it up and down to adjust the contact with the boat so it may ride evenly while driving.

Looking at some pictures in the photo section of this web site shows that some of the trailers have about a 12-16" over hang off the back of the trailer for the bunk board and that the boat will rest on this part of the bunk board before it comes in contact with the trailer. I calculated that my boards need to be long enough so that the full weight of the boat will ride on the boards and not on the center rollers that keep the boat centered while loading and off loading at the dock. I also positioned my bunks so that the point on the bottom where the bunks contact the hull is directly below the area where the inner hull and the center edge of the seats come together. I am looking to suppor this weight as I climb in and out working on my boat.

As far as the length of the bunk is concerned. I took mine no further forward than the most forward edge of the seats. The forward adjustable bunk support is dictated by the type of trailer you have.

I hope this helps. This is only what one person has done.
-Dave

[Peter McMinn]

This is very helpful. I'll probably have some questions for you when I do this myself. Any pics?

[radtek71]

I just rebuilt my trailer. I have a gator trailer that was designed for a flat bottom boat. The first thing I did was replace all of the rollers with new ones and added a keel roller on the bow. Then I bought a pair of five foot bunks from bass pro shops online. With shipping they were about $50.00 then I got four bolster brackets, they pivot where they attach to the bunks. They don't conform to the boat and don't need to they are only for lateral stability. Remeber the DSII has a really flat botton stern. So my bunks turn in toward the hull and give great support. I also have a pair of V bunk supports at the bow. I put this in after I almost fell off the deck stepping my mast. They just kind of allow the bow to wedge between them.

[Peter McMinn]

Radtek:
I'm a little confused why you replaced the rollers then added bunks, but intrigued. Can you provide some pictures?

[Phill]

Hi Peter,

Phill in Springfield, Oregon here. I just started looking into this site again.
I took some pictures of the bunking I put under Lollipop. The trailer was originally under a Coronado 15, so is a bit small for the DS but 15 years and 2 trips to Louisiana and it is still doing fine. I posted a picture of this trailer in the main DSphoto area, and my personal galley on this site.



To build this trailer system:
I marked the trailer cross beams on the boat bottom will masking tape.
Launched the boat in my back yard.
Made a temporary cuddy support from the keel box to the cuddy roof.
Flipped the boat upside down.
Made temporary templates of the bunk supports with cardboard.
When I was satisfied with the patterns, I made another set out of 1/4" ply.
I then made the wedge shaped bunk supports out of treated 2X6's.These supports sit on top of the trailer cross beams.
I then made another set of supports out of marine grade 3/4" ply, only longer this time to bolt onto the face of the trailer cross beams and the 2X6 supports, to keep them standing straight up.
Bolted all of this together and to the trailer.
I then put the 3/4" marine ply across the supports, fastened and covered them with astro turf.
The bow support was only a regular roller until 2 years ago. I made this new cradle by using the boat itself for a mold to make a glass and foam cradle.

The DS is almost perfectly flat fore and aft from the Centerboard pivot to the transom. And in the same area from keel to about 15 - 20" sideways. This makes these bunk support a large area without causing any 'oil canning' or hollows. If I was to make my bunks again I would have them closer together, perhaps starting only about 4 - 5" from the keel instead of the 12" or so that I left unsupported. I would suggest that you at least plan the bunks so that they are directly underneath the vertical edge of the seat tanks. Don"t forget to slather lots of your favorite deck waterseal on all the wood, especially the bunk tops, before covering with whatever padding you prefer. I also waterseal every couple of years the wood that is still exposed. 15years and still looking OK.

Hope This helps
phill