DaySailer.org Forum

Greetings all,

Having removed my standing rigging for replacement, i intend to replace the cotter pins from everywhere I've removed them with new ones. I've noted in several places on the internet, recommendations to use the same standard split pin cotter key that I removed and in others, suggestions to replace them with a split ring for the clevis pin retainers everywhere. I can see that a split ring would be better if it's frequently removed (stay to stemhead etc.), but I've read other places that say split rings should be used everywhere.

Any definitive positions on that topic for Daysailers?

Thanks- Scott

Neither make yourself some scarpins. You can find pics. All you need is double-sided Velcro and some 3/4" cotter pins. They stay in place, but are easily removed for inspection and adjusting

I think I have both, obviously the "real" cotter pins only for things that don't ever get taken apart, but split rings even for some things that some might think of as semi-permanent. Neither have failed for me.

I've actually gone back to cotter pins for some applications where I've seen split rings deform, such as on the gooseneck U-joint. In some places the cotter pins can snag things tho. For split rings that are put on/taken off every time I rig the boat, I like the ones with the little "curl" on one end that makes 'em easier to "get started" ...

There are three kinds of rings that I've encountered. The full-parallels, the incipient spiral, and the 90 degree turn.

You'd think the full parallels would be the hardest, but I have some fittings where just a minor separation of the two "parallel" parts is enough to get things started. There's a knack involved as well, in catching the end against the edge of a hole in the fitting and using that to help you get separation.

The incipient spiral (where the inner part of the ring curves away a bit) is the easiest, you just need to rotate the ring one way and it comes undone. Makes me wonder whether that design might not be prone to come off "by itself" that is, perhaps when a sheet is rubbing along it.

The 90 degree turn is the hardest, at least for me. At least when it comes to taking them off. You need to slide that "knee" up over the fitting, but the knee is rather blunt, so you need to push it much farther than you would the end of a parallel style ring. Also, their overlap is the least, and they seem to compensate by using stiffer wire.

I agree, rings are no good if the fitting is such that you can get substantial loads on them.

'Hear ya GL. I have all three types on the boat, and much prefer the spiral type. Don't need a fingernail on it like the other two types. Never had any of the three types work themselves loose ...

You bring up a good ? tho, about maybe some ring types coming loose by themselves. John (jeadstx), you had a shroud come off it's chainplate during the TX200. Have you done any more investigation into why it did? Was it a split ring holding it on, and if so, which kind?

http://www.bosunsupplies.com/products2. ... RPinSuncor

The pins on the right in the link above work pretty well (they're easy to remove when you want to, but they won't come out when they're not supposed to, even with firm tugging). They're not inexpensive, but if you're fumbledy of finger and have to rig your boat every time you sail (myself, for example), they may be worth it. A wire lanyard will keep the aforementioned fumbledy fingers from dropping them into the water.

Excellent suggestion, Alan. There are even types of quick pins that look like a cross between the two types you show in your link. They have a ring for a lanyard and a push button (the latter not as well protected as the one you linked). I keep forgetting about them, even though I have them on my other boat, because on my DS, the clevis pins are undersized for some bizarre reason. 3/16th will not fit, and try finding anything under 3/16th...

Quick pins are great and, all things being equal, I'd probably retrofit them in most places where I now need to mess with split rings on each launch.

I had a split ring come off my starboard stay on the Texas 200 last June while on a port tack. I had never had a split ring come off before, so it was a suprise. I would have thought that the turnbuckle boot would have kept the clevis pin in place, but it didn't. While trying to repair it, things happened and we capsized. After the boat was ashore (and being bailed), one of the other sailors suggested taping split rings that aren't usually removed. My side stays are both taped now and the boots are over them. I'm checking each split ring since then. I plan to put cotter pins in to replace some of the split rings in places I never remove.

John

John, was your split ring of any particular design? What we called the "parallel", "spiral" or "90°turn" variants earlier in this discussion?

Your advice about taping is sound. Not something I'll do when launching the boat for a 1hr race on the lake, but something to consider for the longer cruise.

I don't remember what type of split ring it was, unfortunately it is at the bottom of the Laguna Madre currently. The one I didn't loose was the parallel type, I guess the one I lost was the same type.

My side stay pins are currently taped as I don't remove the stays when I take down the mast. The tape is only on the toggle and the split ring and does not cause problems with turnbuckle adjustment.

John