Small gas motor operation

Moderator: GreenLake

Small gas motor operation

Postby talbot » Fri May 30, 2014 1:15 am

See the thread in this area on the limitations of trolling motors. Realizing that my 30amp electric was not going to cut it in coastal tides, I aquired a 2hp Honda (recommended elsewhere on this forum). To give you an idea of how clueless I am about motors, I had no idea that small outboards have no transmission, reverse, or neutral. They are like lawnmowers: Caution: When Motor is Running, Blade is Turning.

I'm still trying to wrap my brain about how this will work in cases where I need to use the motor to back out of my slip. I think the steps are:
1. Tie the boat securely to the dock finger, so it can't move fore or aft.
2. Start the motor. which immediately tries to drive the boat into the dock, but can't because of #1.
3. Once the motor has thrashed in place long enough that I can push in the choke, turn the throttle down to minimum, which causes the centrifugal clutch to relax and the prop to stop or almost stop. (You can't start the motor below clutch speed; the "start" position is at about half throttle.)
4. Turn the still-running motor around backwards. (You can't start the motor when it is reversed; the starting cord pulls forward.)
5. Release the dock lines.
6. Give the motor enough gas to engage the clutch and back out.
7. When far enough away from the dock, cut back the throttle and turn the motor to it's normal position.
8. Have extraordinary luck, such that the wind doesn't drive me back into my neighbors' boats while I am doing #7--or the motor doesn't stall.
9. Assuming #8, give it some gas and get the hell out of there; otherwise institute normal out-of-control procedures (climbing on other boats, fending off with feet, promising to come back next week to buff out the scratches.)

Is this the standard protocol, or am I missing something?
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Re: Small gas motor operation

Postby GreenLake » Fri May 30, 2014 3:56 am

talbot wrote:Is this the standard protocol, or am I missing something?


Your #8 and the damage-control part of your #9 seem to be involved every time I've ever messed with a gas outboard :shock: 8)

You forgot getting the rudder and the propeller to connect...

Because of the rudder, I find the designs that require turning the engine to reverse particularly problematic. Ideally, you'd fix the outboard and steer with the main tiller, unlike running a motorboat where your primary steering would be vectored thrust. But if you lock down the engine, you can't reverse, and if you don't, you end up with having to adjust tiller and outboard and that takes a level of coordination that would (at the minimum) require some practice.

I've never had the chance to acquire practice and thus every time I'm faced with that setup, I end up with steps #8 and #9 ... :oops:

In fact, I prefer to dock under sail if at all possible, failing that, using paddle power for the last few feet.... but let us know how this works out once you've gotten some routine.
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Re: Small gas motor operation

Postby UncleJohn » Sat May 31, 2014 2:16 am

Talbot -

Our DS came with a beat up little 2hp Mariner motor that's set up like yours - no clutch, no reverse. It doesn't look like much but always starts on the 1st or 2nd pull. I've found that, with a little practice, I can start it, switch off the choke, and reverse it in about 1.5 seconds from ignition. Crew stays on the dock holding the boat or in the boat holding the dock until it's running and starting to move backwards. I then steer (backwards) with the rudder until clear of the dock and other boats, swing it into the forward position, aim into the wind (using rudder AND motor steering sometimes), and hoist the sails.

If you're in a slip in a crowded marina-type setting, would it work to maneuver (by hand/paddle/pole) to the end of the pier facing the right direction before starting the motor?

- John
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Re: Small gas motor operation

Postby TIM WEBB » Sat May 31, 2014 3:14 pm

Talbot, sorry to hear that you're having so much trouble w/ the H2. It does take some getting used to. I've had mine for 6 months now, and used it probably 20-25 times. You definitely only want to swing it around into/out of reverse when it's at idle. The motor *can* be started at idle (clutch disengaged or only partly engaged), *if* the throttle linkage is correctly adjusted, and the carb is in tip-top shape. About 3 months ago I forked over the 80 bucks for a new one here:

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/honda ... 6-716.html

and since then it has purred like a kitten at all throttle settings, warm or cold. Non-ethanol gas. Usually don't even need full choke to start it cold. Also picked up spare prop, new fuel filter/line, spark plug, gas cap gaskets/filter, tool kit, and shop manual (about $40 on Amazon). Owner's manual was a free download, off the Honda site as I recall. I'd be glad to send you the pdf file if you don't have it.

As far as the "dock dance" goes, obviously it's easiest the turn the boat around after launching if at all possible, and motor straight out. Rudder should never come near the prop, as long as there is a positive downhaul. Especially if the motor is on a bracket that stands it off from the stern several inches. Steering is with rudder, and motor angle is set so boat goes straight ahead with tiller amidships.
Tim Webb
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(I used to be Her "staff", in the way dogs have owners and cats have staff, but alas no longer ... <pout>)
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Re: Small gas motor operation

Postby Swashbuckley » Sat May 31, 2014 9:50 pm

After a year of doing the 'dance' I found I enjoyed my outings more if I docked European style with the stern in. This eliminates the forward, reverse, forward, stall routine on departure. Just start and head out. When returning to my slip the motor was already warm and handled the forward, idle, reverse, maneuvers better. Less apologizing, bruises and repairing other boats.
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Re: Small gas motor operation

Postby metalbender » Sat May 31, 2014 10:14 pm

I did a little research when buying a motor for my ds1. Seems the Honda, with it's clutch set up does'nt turn the prop till higher rpm. My purchase was to also be a kicker for my fishing boat, so the Honda was a no go. I opted for a 4 stroke 2.5 HP Suzuki which has a fwd/n shift. Still pivots for reverse but is easily managed by shifting to neutral, pivoting and egage drive again. Being able to slowly idle away from the dock gives better control of the boat. The Zuki is also much quieter, being water cooled.
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Re: Small gas motor operation

Postby TIM WEBB » Sat May 31, 2014 10:54 pm

Swashbuckley, I believe Talbot was referring to launching at public ramps ... ?

Metalbender, you make a good case for the Suzuki. My primary consideration in my search for an o/b was 4 stroke, as I didn't want to mess around with mixing oil/gas. Had I found one of those 2.5 Suzukis, I would have scooped it up lickety-split! My *only* beef w/ the H2 is the noise, but, then again, I've had others tell me it's not loud at all. Must just be my prejudice after 7 years with a trolling motor ... ?

And, just a general question to be thrown out there: why are water cooled engines quieter than air cooled ones? I could google it, but I'm feeling a bit lazy right now ... ;-P
Tim Webb
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(I used to be Her "staff", in the way dogs have owners and cats have staff, but alas no longer ... <pout>)
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Re: Small gas motor operation

Postby K.C. Walker » Sat May 31, 2014 11:12 pm

I most often turn my boat around before starting the motor. I don't have a tight slip so that certainly helps. Though, you might be able to use the same method that I do. I use long mooring lines (20 feet). I bring the stern mooring line opposite of the dock line forward and do a quick hitch around the head stay, so that I can reach it easily when I get the boat to the end of the dock. I back the boat out using the mooring lines. When I get the boat to the end of the dock, I grab the opposite side stern mooring line from the head stay and pull it around. Of course, I'm using my feet to help maneuver the boat and then back into place.

My motor has no neutral and is direct drive, so no clutch. When it's cold I do give it 30 seconds to warm up while tied to the dock. It is definitely key to have the motor tuned up for a single pull start, or close to it and a good idle.
KC Walker, DS 1 #7002
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Re: Small gas motor operation

Postby talbot » Sun Jun 01, 2014 2:30 am

Tim/Swashbuckler: I was actually talking about getting out of my slip at a marina, but getting away from crowded public ramps (particularly at the coast during salmon season) is another place where motor skills are important. The Suzuki seems like a good alternative to the Honda. A few pounds heavier than the Honda, but more powerful, and with a neutral shift. Note that the Honda 2HP is no longer made. For new motors, the appropriate comparison is between the Suzuki 2.5 and the Honda 2.3. Another advantage of the Suzuki is that it says it requires one less inch of transom to get adequate depth of the prop. My mount meets the specs (cavitation plate 5.9" below the surface), but I'm thinking of cutting down the mount another inch in the fall. I was getting some cavitation in larger waves.
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Re: Small gas motor operation

Postby Swashbuckley » Sun Jun 01, 2014 4:23 am

I think that makes the Suzuki the winner. Yea, crowded ramps are a boat handling stress test. Especially when your motor is smaller that everyone else's by a factor of 10. :shock:
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Re: Small gas motor operation

Postby K.C. Walker » Sun Jun 01, 2014 8:37 am

Yes, crowded boat ramps can be stressful. I think that a lot of people are stressed out at the ramp. I find communication with other boaters to really ease the tension. After all, everyone there is just hoping to enjoy time on the water and we've all botched a launch or two. If I start conversations with the fishing guys, who most often can launch and retrieve quickly and might be impatient, that really helps. If I explain my boat's limitations (and of course imply my own limitations) they seem to be much more understanding. If I offer to lend a hand for people that are less experienced and having problems launching or retrieving, that helps everybody move things along. Basically, I treat it as part of the boating experience that I enjoy and hopefully other people also enjoy it a little bit more.
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Re: Small gas motor operation

Postby metalbender » Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:50 am

The water jackets dampen the operating noise of the motor. Had an old Sears Gamefisher 5 HP years ago. Simply a lawn mower engine, noisy pos, never again. The Zuki starts right off in neutral, runs like a champ. Was looking at used motors initially but 20 year old ones were priced crazy high.
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Re: Small gas motor operation

Postby TIM WEBB » Sun Jun 01, 2014 8:30 pm

I agree KC: a little bit of "paying it forward" can go a long way towards "peaceful boater coexistence"!
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(I used to be Her "staff", in the way dogs have owners and cats have staff, but alas no longer ... <pout>)
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Re: Small gas motor operation

Postby GreenLake » Sun Jun 01, 2014 10:51 pm

Apropos crowded ramps:
719

The waiting motorboats are just off-frame to the left...

Now, imagine this, on a weekday night, with half a dozen dinghies getting ready for the local beer-can race, preferably on a good fishing night....

You can see the power cables, that means that all rigging and de-rigging has to happen right on the ramp. I've had more than one motor-boat driver suggest I should drive to a parking spot across the street with mast standing only to look a bit sheepish when I pointed out the cables.

I've also had my truck t-boned by an idiot who couldn't see over an empty (!) trailer.

I wish everybody was as philosophical as K.C. I remember one night, there was somebody who got so enraged that we were afraid it would come to actual blows.
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Re: Small gas motor operation

Postby talbot » Mon Jun 02, 2014 1:05 am

We had a really bad experience the last time we went to the coast, and our underpowered electric motor was part of the problem. We are going out this week on the lake to drill on gas motor use, with the goal of going back to sea. Well, back to estuary.
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