Trailer support or bunks

Moderator: GreenLake

Trailer support or bunks

Postby csrguth » Mon Apr 06, 2015 5:51 pm

My trailer does not properly support my 1980 Rebel DS1 and the seats are separating from the haul. Additionally it holds the aft too high and rain collects in the bow.

Image

Does any one have good pictures / plans for supports?
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1980 Rebel, Sail# 11041
Pummakale, Turkish for Cotton Castle
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Re: Trailer support or bunks

Postby GreenLake » Mon Apr 06, 2015 8:50 pm

Oh, my!

I don't know where to source better attachment brackets for your trailer. Mine swivel a bit, so that the bunks always lie flat. I think you'd want to go to at least something that's 8" wide, but 12" or 18" would be even better. And as you can see, the bottom is totally flat, so a straight bunk can run for 6-8' in one piece.

Also, you might be able to raise the rollers in front a bit, so that the overall situation is more level. However, for longer storage, why can't you just raise the trailer tongue a bit to prevent water from pooling?
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Re: Trailer support or bunks

Postby klb67 » Tue Apr 07, 2015 7:06 am

I replaced my old trailer with a loadrite 14f1000w model. It has 2x4 bunks with the width supporting the boat. I upgraded the keel rollers as well. The bunks could be a foot or 2 longer and I may upgrade those at some point. I don't have pictures of my trailer but that model is easily found online.

You could get new bunks (or make your own) and buy bunk mounts from any trailer part supplier, and they would be a big upgrade to what you have.
1976 DSII - #8039
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Re: Trailer support or bunks

Postby GreenLake » Tue Apr 07, 2015 10:01 am

2x4 are way too narrow. Really.

The good news is that you can easily build your own bunks. I'm partial to smooth outdoor carpets without a nobbly pattern. The local remnant place always carries "automotive" carpets that are more like a fleece.

Some people replace the keel rollers by a bunk as well. It distributes the load better, especially for long-distance trailering. For in front of the CB, I've found no evidence that short-distance trailering and on-trailer storage has lead to any damage from keel-rollers, aft of the CB, the weight definitely should be on the bunks.

The CB should be supported by roller or bunk so that the uphaul or handle isn't the only thing holding it up.
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Re: Trailer support or bunks

Postby kokko » Sat Apr 11, 2015 10:48 am

There are a number of places on the net where you can buy bunk kits. I added a set amidships as the stern and bow bunks were not sufficient.
I agree that 2x4 with the 1 3/4 edge is a bad idea. You can take the existing bunk and screw a 2x4 to it so the 3 1/2 face is agains the boat. Then cover than with carpet. It forms a T for greater surface area
DS1 Truelove
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Re: Trailer support or bunks

Postby talbot » Sat Apr 11, 2015 2:27 pm

You could also replace that aft rubber keel roller with a wide polyurethane roller on an adjustable bracket. That would make it easier to retrieve the boat. (The bow rolls smoothly along the roller until the bunks contact the hull.) With the adjustment, you could bring the roller up until it just contacts the hull. That way, it shares some of the load with the bunks. As others have said, roller and bunk kits are widely available. Trailer Parts Superstore is one online outlet that I have used.
Last edited by talbot on Sun Apr 12, 2015 12:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Trailer support or bunks

Postby GreenLake » Sat Apr 11, 2015 11:45 pm

The secret to loading my DS on a trailer with both bunks and rollers was to
a) have roller that is wide with a notch in the middle
b) lower it so that the bunks take over once the front part of the keel is past
c) immerse the trailer until the rear roller just breaks the surface

Retrieval consists of
1) getting the bow to engage the notch in the roller.
2) pulling the bow past the roller, which will guide the keel, for a few feet
3) using the roller as a pivot to straighten the boat
4) pulling the boat up onto the next roller
5) connecting the winch and winching her home

Roller #2 from the rear is set to just touch the hull (keeps the CB up).

The rear roller is 2-3" below the hull when the boat rests on the bunks.

This configuration and process works well for me, and doesn't require any one to go into the water, so great for winter sailing. The trick of lowering the rear roller didn't occur to me right away, but it seems to make a crucial difference. If it's too high, the boat will (un-)happily roll off the rollers in any sideways direction, whereas now it slides along the bunks in a straight line.

Having a roller mainly has the function of tracking the bow (where the keel has a sharp V section) and the use of the rear roller as a pivot is great in lining up the boat. Works in the presence of moderate side wind/current as well, although I often lead a line from a stern cleat to someone on the beach as backup.

Waves and wakes can interfere, by lifting and shifting the boat.

For an
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