DaySailer.org Forum

Hello All,

I did a search and couldn't find what I was looking for.

I just joined a club with my new to me II.

I've got a mooring and am looking at getting a small outboard.

The manual suggests long shaft.

Question. How do I measure that and what numbers are considered long shift as I'm looking for a used one ?

Thanks.

Just measure from top of transom to bottom and relate that to the recommendations / specs for the type of motor you are looking at.

You will note a lot of us here are happy with either a trolling motor (cheapest) or an electric outboard (expensive but very light quiet and low maintenance).

But there are use profiles that can mean a traditional gas outboard hits the sweet spot. In price in between the other options, even if used. Loud and heavy. Definitely needs more maintenance but also more powerful and practically unlimited range.

If you need those features...

And yes the DS isn't for short shafts.

Ok. Great.

May I also ask. I looked at several other daysailers at the marina and most had some kind of bracket that steps the motor up and away from the transom.

Is this necessary and what is the reason ?

For a small outboard the consensus is that it's not necessary.
It might make it easier to use a shorter shift or to raise / tilt it out of the water.
I would assume that depends on the motor.

Downside is it moves the weight even further aft.

On a DS there are two places where you don't want extra weight.

One is at the stern. It really slows the boat down.

The other is aloft. Any weight there will make the boat heel more.

That's why I would always recommend the lightest motor and to place any lead batteries close to the mast base.

For Gas 2.5hp is all you need unless you aren't using the DS primarily as a sailboat.

I picked up a NS3-5A..29lbs and I really wanted 2.5hp only, but local to me and only $150 and it runs well i thought it was too good to pass on.

I can't seem to get it to lock upright and doesn't seem as snug on the transom as I'd like.

Don't want to crank it down. I will take a trip to the marina and learn from others setup.

Instead of a full bracket, you might also consider mounting just a bit of a plate, or two thinner plates inside and outside of the transom. Those would protect the gel coat and also reinforce the area locally. Finally, they add thickness and that may help, depending on your clamp setup.

For my minimalist setup, I use two small bits of plywood, connected with a "hinge" of gorilla tape glued back to back. I hang that over the transom, then attach my motor. Same idea, but you might benefit from mounting those permanently.

Thanks. There's a piece of ply attached at the back and two rubber cup things for the bracket. But they don't really fit.
So I'm going to make a ply cover for those so the clamps rest securely.

I also ordered some old firehouse to go over the top on the fiberglass.

Should be in good shape after that.

I had one motor where I glued the plywood to the motor clamp itself and then used sticky carpet on the plywood. Doesn't work with all clamp designs.

So,

I put the outboard on the back. Downloaded the manual and I can see there's no pin or mechanism to hold it out of the water unlike the manual suggests.

Anyone else have this same issue, or fix ?

And also I have a leak where the filler neck meets the tank..
Anything I can use to seal that ?

The leak is probably why the motor was on sale.

Not sure you can do anything with that tank material. You may be looking at needing a replacement. (But I'm not an expert).

Does the manual suggest a mechanism with a picture, or specific words? Looks puzzling indeed. Why support tipping if you can't arrest it. Just for when you hit an obstacle?

This is the page from the manual that suggests there is some kind of retaining pin.

But yet there's nothing on the motor casting to even suggest anything would go there.

Clearly a puzzle.

I trust the side of the bracket not shown in your pictures is the same? Also, there isn't a place that you can hook the blue handle into on the front, by chance?

A simple piece of 2x4 inserted in the gap and with a bungee that you can loop in front would make a serviceable makeshift solution.

It seems puzzling that there wouldn't be something supplied as part of the motor. I do notice that your photo shows a projection right at the transom that looks like something could hook into it. But there's nothing on the motor that looks like it could connect. (Unless there's something on the opposite side).

BTW, one of the reasons why I picked my current E-outboard was the extremely easy way it can be raised and lowered with a simple pull/push on the control rod. (Mine doesn't have a pin either, but it "clicks" into place, which holds it while on the water -- you wouldn't want to trailer it that way, of course).

Yeah, I've scoured the internet and have seen both versions since.

I checked both sides also, and when I look at the orientation of the bracket from the manual its clearly on the side pictured.

There isn't even a casting where maybe some, were drilled out.

I wondered if ordering the new brackets where the pin casting is included would be worth doing.

For now and maybe the medium term, a piece of 2x4 will suffice, with as you suggest some kind of bungee.

I already have to order and replace the leaking gas tank as it being in the upright position causes fuel to drip down the rear of the motor.

I'd rather not take the chance that whatever I seal that with stops sealing when out and drips onto a hot motor.

Here's the parts catalogue, clearly showing the casting for the pin.

Quiggers73 wrote:...
I'd rather not take the chance that whatever I seal that with stops sealing when out and drips onto a hot motor.

Words of wisdom!

That pin thing is bizzzzzzare.

Not sure what metalworking skills you bring to the table, but any competent machine shop should be able to add a workable custom solution. Might even work better than the factory original. And, as you agree, in the meantime, there's a reasonable jury-rig to see you through.