This Old Trailer

[KingsTransom]

The A-frame of the winch/bow stop/mast support is C-channel with the center cut out at the bottom to clear the tongue box-beam and a bolt underneath the tongue on the rear leg, but the bolt goes through the box-beam on the front leg. I assume the front leg lower mounting point was altered to make the mast support rake back to clear a truck cap or the back of an SUV.



I tried moving the front leg down and forward, so the bolt runs under the box-beam rather than through it. This moves the bow stop about 5 inches forward and, unfortunately, the mast support down (and forward) 3-1/2 inches. Raising the mast support extension to its last available bolt hole results in the support point being only 1-3/4 inches lower than is was in the as-received configuration. I'll need to do some line-of-sight surveying to see how tall the rear mast/boom support rack will need to be to clear the top of the cuddy, given the lowered front support. I need to make a new rear mast rack anyway, for other reasons.



The main point of this exercise is to put the trailer back to a fully adjustable configuration so I can move the boat forward so less is cantilevered off the back of the trailer. If I continued with the front leg lower mount using the bolt through the tongue, any adjustment would require that I drill another hole in the tongue. The only way to use the adjustable configuration and a high mast support would be to buy or make a longer front leg for the winch/bow stop/mast support, or a longer mast support extension.

If the majority of the boat's weight is to be borne by the keel rollers, as stated in the manual, then I think the existing three keel rollers insufficient. That is about 200 pounds per roller, each providing little more than a point contact. The rollers are at 3', 7'6", and 10'9" aft of the bow, given the boat's current position on the trailer. I'd like to add a forth roller on the tongue at or near the point marked "C"(1 ft aft of bow), especially if I am going to be moving the boat forward on the trailer. I may also add a fifth at the point marked "D" (5 ft aft of bow). That puts rollers spaced closer at the front but, given the high freeboard, the front is probably heavier than the rear.

[GreenLake]

At this point, you might consider getting a different used trailer (and subsequently selling this one). Chances that you end up with something that truly fits your boat are probably higher and (used trailers of a certain age being similar in price) you might even come out close to even. Just a thought.

[Shagbark]

I put my trailer tongue on a bathroom scale earlier this year, with all rigging and gear and it came out at 125lbs. I've never had any problem lifting the tongue, and I don't have the greatest of backs. Just remember to lift with the legs.

[GreenLake]

FWIW: the transom overhangs the end of the trailer by about 3'. The bunks are supported by a metal U-channel. That one goes out perhaps half the distance to the transom, and I've let the wooden bunk overhang a bit beyond that. The back of the DS is hardly curved in a fore-aft direction, once you go beyond the CB aft end.

[KingsTransom]

I'm not sure how wise it is for me to add a keel roller at the point marked 'C' in the last photo of my 7/21/16 post. That point is forward of the tilt hinge, and may move down and back up with the dynamic forces seen while driving. Since the center of gravity is forward of the axle, the tilt pivot point is, while under static load, pushed down, so the tongue is as close to the keel as it can be, but when slightly tilting, as may occur while towing, the tongue may move down from the keel. The existing three keel rollers are, of course, aft of the hinge.

As it is, and independent of adding another keel roller, I don't like the fit of the tilt lock pin assembly - an angle iron, mounted to the top of the tongue with a U-bolt, holding a pair of keeper plates with holes through which the locking pin goes. The lock pin is smaller than the holes in the keepers (easily fixed), and the bar attached to the trailer that sits between the keepers and is meant to be stopped the locking pin is about 1/8" below the pin, even if the pin were big enough (not so easy). This means that joint could have significant flex while on the road. I am of a mind to replace that with something that fits tighter. Then I might put a jack under the hinge to see how much flex there is. While I understand that the whole trailer flexes to some degree, I don't like the idea of adding a keel roller on the tongue if it moves down while driving.

[GreenLake]

Wouldn't bother to add another roller here.

[DigitalMechanic]

Not sure how much all those rollers are going to cost to implement, but if you are concerned about providing even support on the centerline, guys have done it with a centerline bunk. Seems like it might be more economical, and gives a true even support to the whole centerline. See Mike Gillum's trailer here...

http://forum.daysailer.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=4570&start=15

Did shifting the boat forward on the trailer fix the centerboard droop problem?

[KingsTransom]

I replaced all three keel rollers. I used the rig below to set the load carried by the middle roller to 200 pounds. Thinking it wouldn't matter much, I had tried setting the scale and jack on the ground, but once I was done, I could turn the middle roller by hand, while I could not turn the other rollers. By putting the scale and jack on the ground, the jack was then lifting the middle of the boat, unloading the center of the trailer and leaving the ends loaded, though less. The resulting flex in the trailer meant that the weight I measured was meaningless. This rig keeps the middle of the trailer loaded with the same weight that will be carrie∂ once everything is bolted tight and the rig is removed.

I rolled the boat forward 5" to the new bow stop position. The middle roller now supports the CB at about 20" aft of the front. The CB opening is about 52", so about 38%. Not ideal, but better. I may span the side rails with a piece of wood to hold up the tail of the CB.

[welderr]

Since you guys are talking about trailers, I was wondering whether most of you use a tilt trailer or a rigid trailer. I have just started reconditioning and older trailer I picked up for my DS it can tilt in the middle but is bolted fast right now. My fathers old bass boat trailer tilted which was handy when the ramp wasn't angled enough it made it a lot easier to winch the boat on. If I go with it tilting its just one more roller and a latch to buy from E-Trailer , and with how low the reservoir is right now tilting might just come in handy, what do you guys think/ T.J.

[GreenLake]

I have a tilt trailer and I use it for launch more often than for retrieval. For launch, on the ramps I use most often, I barely get the hubs wet. The tilt makes it easier for the boat to slide with gravity. For retrieval, on most ramps, I keep the trailer rigid, and drive it into the water to where the last roller just sits at the water level. It has a notch, in which I "capture" the keel. That most helpfully fixes the alignment. I can usually pull the boat half way up just using the painter, and only winch it from there.

When retrieving a boat launched on the hard, the tilt feature really helps. I found that there is an optimal tilt angle and that it makes sense to limit the maximal tilt angle. On my trailer I achieve that by a short strop that limits the distance between tilt lock and trailer tongue when the trailer is tilted. Works like a charm (without it, the bow will "dig in" between two sets of keel rollers).

I guess, if I ever encountered a ramp that's too shallow for my usual method, I could treat it like launching / retrieving to/from the hard.

[welderr]

Thanks for the response GL, The strap makes sense to me as well thanks for that idea. I am going to go ahead and get the latch and another roller , I think it could end up being a case of better to have it & not need it than need it and not have it, especially with how low the reservoir's have gotten around here. TJ

[GreenLake]

The "reservoir" I sail in is rising, albeit slowly. Someone is melting too much ice...

[Owevy]

I think trailer should be new and this thing should not be avoided as the safety is necessary. I love the customized trailer of my own custom designed just like this one https://www.slide on.com/

[GreenLake]

Moderator speaking: we don't like it if your very first post is a product endorsement. That's a common technique for forum spammers. I've taken the liberty of redirecting your link until we hear from you again.