The lee shroud should go slack. I run around 180lbs of tension the shrouds on my DSII (which I think may be more than most), and in moderate winds it goes a little slack/sloppy. If you are talking about 5mph wind, and it is going slack you may consider tightening it up some.
There are several rigging guides, but I tend to follow the one Dave Keran made for North Sails (even though I have cheap Intensity sails on my boat, it seems to work fine for me). If you have sails that came with a rigging guide try to follow it, or post the guide for them so we can help
If you want to follow Dave's guide in detail it is located here...
https://northsails.com/sailing/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/north-daysailer-tuningguide.pdfI think Dave's guide is probably the best if you are not interested in tightening your rig to 300-400lbs (and most will not unless they are serious about racing). The guide recommends 300-320lbs, but I have found the boat cruises fine rigged at 180lbs on the shrouds using to Dave's guide (and I am not worried about snapping a chainplate through the gunwale). Here is my abbreviated version/translation of the standing rigging setup...
Centering fore/aft:
To get the fore/aft positioning of the mast you can lash a tape measure to the main halyard and run it up to the top. You should have roughly 25 feet from the top of the mast to the top of the transom. You may start at 24' 11" as you will ultimately put an inch of prebend in the mast and make adjustments to the forestay, which should pull it back once you start tightening everything down.
Centering starboard/port:
You can measure how centered the mast is after your tightening adjustments by taking your main halyard and pulling it to the gunwale next to the chainplate and marking it with your thumb. Then walk to the other side of the boat and see if the spot where your thumb is too short or too long. You will know what side to tighten (or loosen) more until you get it centered.
Prebend:
When all said and done, you should have about an inch of prebend. you can measure this by pulling the main halyard down to the gooseneck (tight), and measuring the gap between the mast and the halyard up by the spreaders. You should have about an inch gap.
You can measure with a "Loos Gauge", but when I got to this point I had 180lbs on the shrouds and 110-120 lbs on the forestay, and 1" prebend, 25ft from top of mast to transom. Could it be tightened more, yes. But where it sat, everything was in spec, so I left the tension at what I suspect the racing folks would tell you is minimum spec to make the boat sail correctly (actually my buddy races and he said he would tighten the rig considerably, lol... but was fine for cruising, and sailed correctly). If I wanted to race it with the rigging at 320lbs and 210lb forestay, I would fabricate elongated chainplates to distribute the load across the gunwales more for extra support.
Rigging tips:
1.
Need to tighten more and cannot... If you cannot tighten anymore and feel you need to still, it means your mast is too short. My boat has been de-masted at least once by me and once by someone else... oops. You can shim the mast from below in the cuddy if you need to.
These work great
http://www.drmarine.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DS207Just take a grinder and blow away the extrusions.
Also, many have used wood to shim with and reported good results, but you will have to inspect it frequently. I have a wood shim on my boat and works fine. I just inspected it last week while doing some other repairs on the boat and is in good shape. Been there for 2 years, sandwiched between 2 shaved mast castings (kind of like a wood filler)
Also, if you have been de-masted there is a good chance the screws that hold the casting into the cuddy floor are stripped. You may inspect them if you make it that far to make sure you do not need a wider screw to fill the holes now.
2.
Forestay tension... Do not worry about getting an exact tension on the forestay. It is going to land where it lands after you do all the other adjustments correctly. The reason to adjust the forestay is to keep puling the mast back to the 25' from transom mark. Think of your goals as this...
Adjust shrouds until you get the 1 inch prebend in the mast
Adjust forestay to keep mast tip at 25' from transomYou do not need a Loos gauge to do this, just a halyard and a tape measure (but if you are nosy like me and want to know the actual tension, then a Loos gauge is your friend)
Once you hit those 2 goals everything should be falling into place