First, the grommet at the mast end might have been intended for a Cunningham, although it seems placed too high, if it's really a foot above the one near the clew. I can't come up with a potential use for the aft one.
Second, echoing what others have written, get your reef points installed, with reinforcements, above tack and clew. Whether you shell out for a sewing machine, hand-stitch or find a professional to do it for you, just get it done. (Most sailmakers will handle this job, even for sails that are not their own. If you don't have one in driving distance, see whether some will do it "mail order").
You do not need any grommets for sail ties, a reefed sail on a DS will stay in place if tucked in. More or less, but it's fine.
You should be able to tell from the batten position where the reef points are on my sail.
Once you have your reef points, there are two options (and no, roller reefing isn't one of them). One is to install a reef hook near the gooseneck and use a reef line at the back. The latter is used to pull the reef point down and back, so one end is positioned below the reef point and the other one is positioned a bit aft, so it ends up tightening the new "foot".
The other option is to use a reef line in the front as well, like a larger Cunningham. I set mine up to combine both into a single reefline. It works, as you can see, and needs only one cleat, but the downside is that friction prevents you from just pulling at the end. I need to reach under the boom, yank the line tight (pulling the aft reef point into position) then repeat that for the front part while not losing tension in the rear. Not too bad, if you know what to do.
Whether you use a single reef line or two, a possible advantage over a reef hook is that you don't need to use the halyard to tighten the luff of the reefed sail. Instead you use the reefline which, like a Cunningham, has an effective 2:1 purchase. (You simply drop the main halyard to a position you mark on the line, and then pull the sail tight with the reef line).
A reef hook is faster, but you need to let the halyard out a bit more, and then take that slack out again.
So there's options.