Rudder Downhaul

[bdpvt]

We sailed our newly acquired DS II for the first time today. We really enjoyed the boat but I noticed that the rudder has a tendency to rise as we sailed and needed to be lowered several times. I was thinking a downhaul would be a good idea, possible a bungee. Anyone have suggestions on how to make this work?

[TIM WEBB]

I'm getting ready to install one, with an eyestrap on the leading edge of the rudder, another one on the underside of the tiller, some 1/4" line, and one of those quick release clam cleats from Duckworks on the underside of the tiller. I'm going to use one for the CB downhaul, too ...

[Alan]

I almost hesitate to suggest this, since I don't want to be the guy who caused you to crack the gelcoat on your rudder, but is the pivot bolt between the rudder blade and the rudder head tight?

[Kleanbore]

My rudder was not staying down either. I removed the rudder blade from the rudder head and noticed the area of the blade around the pivot hole was nearly 3/32" concave. After sanding the gel coat, cutting disks of fiberglass cloth and laying up enough layers to make the area clean, flat and parallel, the rudder now stays down just fine. I also cut 2 5" diameter shims from a plastic milk bottle, punched a hole in the centers for the pivot bolt and placed one on each side of the blade.
I plan to make a racing foil and lightweight rudder head this winter, but these simple changes to the factory rudder made a big difference with the blade kicking up.

[bdpvt]

The rudder pivot bolt seems snug. I hesitate to over tighten as there is already a small crack in that area. There is some friction on the blade but obviously not enough to keep it down. I will disassemble and inspect the bearing surface for wear and consider adding some sort of downhaul. Thanks guys!

[GreenLake]

The thing about the top of the rudderblade being concave rings a bell, although mine stays down quite fine. I'm wondering, though, whether the use of shims (clever idea) might not be enough in some cases without the trouble of fine fiberglass work.

[K.C. Walker]

I made my rudder downhaul like Tim is planning to. My variation on that theme is that I put the cleat on the top of the rudder head instead of the tiller. I cut the front top corner off the rudder head just enough to fit the cleat. It works fine.

[ctenidae]

I drilled a hole through one side of the head, through the Rudder, adn made a dent on the other side of teh head. A bamboo skewer stuck in there works great, pops right through if it hits a rock, eeasy to replace.

Probably waterlogginf the head and rudder, but they come out of the water whe we're done for the day anyway.

Stay tuned next spring for the "My rudder and head froze and ballooned over the winter" thread.

[jdubes]

I single hand alot and always think about whether a new adjust point or tie down will require that 3rd hand while i'm sailing. 3rd hands don't grow on trees so this is what i did. I found some very wide nylon bushings and put them on the inside of the rudder pivot point. I then scuffed them up with sand paper and installed them. Wider the better, increases the amount of friction. Works like a charm and doesn't require any drilling or extra lines.



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