Bent Mast (Not mast bend)

[Skippa]

Well, I did it this time !
1980, DSII. One piece mast.
Sailing on port tack, wind speed about 11 - 12 MPH on a close reach, both screws that secure the chainplate on the port side parted. Broke off the heads of the screws right at deck level. The end result is I now have a very noticable bend to starboard in the lower section of the mast. Measured from the base of the mast (keel stepped, one piece) the bend starts at about 3 feet and continues upward to about 8 feet. A string run from the bottom to the top of the bend indicates about 2 inches of bend at the deepest part. The mast appears straight fore and aft.
By resting the mast on wooden blocks I was able to sit and bounce on the highest section of the bend and it did straighten slighlty.
I have searched the archives and found only one thread and there was no comment or suggestion as to possible repair.
Any suggestions for repair? I believe I can re-rig and sail as is but would like a straight and sound mast.
As always, Thank you in advance for any and all suggestions.
Kevin

[Bob Damon]

I did the same thing when I had a DS II. I was able to continue to bounce it a little bit at a time and got it nearly straight. Another thing that has worked in the past is to fill the mast with sand, then leave the mast in the sun with block under the bent section and securing the short end, then hang a cinder block from the upper end. The hot sand and the heat to the mast from the sun pulls it down straight. You will still have a slight bend but not enough to keep from sailing. For good measure I bought a chafe collar that is used on Selden Masts at the mast partner and pop riveted this around the bent area to reinforce it. I would also recommend purchasing stronger chain plates. At one time there was a heavy duty replacement that used 4 bolts and a longer backing plate but I do not think they are available anymore. Good luck.

[Skippa]

Thanks Bob,
I like the idea of sand in the mast and a good weight. I did place a few stratigicly placed 8x8 timbers under the mast and carefully stood and bounced on the high part of the bend, I have it well under and inch of bend now, I can still see it but it is a heck of a lot better than it was. Still not satisfied, Will give your suggestion a try.
As far as the chainplates go, I removed the failed one and the starboard pair as well, It almost looks like they are aluminium bolts however I doubt that. The starboard bolts did show signs of stress, not truely straight, I will be going to my local marine supply store for replacements tomorrow.
Feeling very happy that I didn't lose the mast.
Thanks again.
Kevin

[Alan]

First of all, thanks for justifying my rookie nerves about the chainplates.

In my box of shiny stuff are some take-apart stainless hatch hinges, with four screws and really heavy duty. It occurred to me that one half of one of these would make a near-unbreakable chain plate. Well, yes, and then what?

If you started, as I did, from the standard-equipment shrouds, you've got the upgrade cascade--from D&R 1/8-inch shrouds and forestay, to the chainplates, to where the chainplates might tear their way through the fiberglass.

It turns out that 7/8-inch stainless tubing is a perfect fit under the hull molding on a DSII where the chainplate backup washer is now. So, easy: buy a foot of the stuff, split it lengthwise with a metal blade in a table saw, cut off whatever length of that works for your anxiety level, slightly enlarge the existing screw holes to fit the hinge half (lucky break there), and employ GreenLake's advice about using epoxy in the other two screw holes.

One note of caution: Drilling stainless is a lot more difficult than I expected, even enlarging existing holes.

[Skippa]

Alan,
Thanks for the feedback. After removing both chainplate assemblies, port and starboard, all the hardware appears to be in good shape with the exception of the bolts. Upper and lower chainplates do look good. The fiberglass deck looks sound as well. I believe this really was a failure of the bolts themsleves. Prior to sailing today I did take my screwdriver and check the tighness on all the stay's, Perhaps I over tourqued them???
I do like the idea of using the split SS tubing and enlarging the holes to take maybe # 10 stainless bolts.
Appreciate the feedback.
Kevin

[Rolias]

My DS1 had its mast bent from a microburst related to a tornado that went through Stoughton WI a number of years ago. Two conveniently spaced pine trees in the yard enabled me to Slowly bend the mast back to true.

[Alan]

I've posted a photo of the heavy duty chainplate to my personal gallery. Will try to post a thumbnail here later.

[Skippa]

Alan.
Are you using wood screws or are they thru bolted?
Kevin

[Alan]

Kevin,

I haven't actually installed them yet, but I'll be using machine screws with locknuts. The two screws closest to the outer edge of the boat fit into the existing holes, with a bit of enlargement. The two screws closest to the center of the boat will protrude into the cuddy, so they're accessible from below. (I drilled the hole closest to the hull just to be sure, and it clears the hull by about half an inch).

It was pure luck that the hole spacing matched the existing holes so closely. If you're interested, I'll measure the hole spacing and dimensions of the chainplate.

Just for general info, I don't know how well these would fit on a DSI, since as I understand it they have a rubrail that the DSII doesn't have.