Front Flotation Tank

[Alan]

So I worked up my nerve and cut a hole in the forward bulkhead to install an 8-inch inspection port. The bow tank is completely filled with random-sized pieces of white styrofoam, and there's no sign of moisture. However, the nuts that secure the bow hook are very rusted, so it must have been wet in there at some point.

The adventure is chronicled in the first four photos of my personal gallery. I was able to post thumbnails once upon a time, using GreenLake's instructions; I'll try to recapture that skill later.

[GreenLake]

Condensation would probably suffice as a source of moisture to help corrode metal parts - especially as the same parts would probably be the "cold spots" that attracted condensation.

What will you do next? Are you a soda-bottle man, or a pool-noodle guy? I had spare pink (or was it blue) insulation panels and cut strips of those to form a tight packing.

The problem with keeping the current foam is that the reserve buoyancy is limited when it's such a loose jumble, and if water ever does get in (say small underwater puncture or crack in deck, then the white stuff does get waterlogged - nobody checks these things before every trip.

[Alan]

OK, got that thumbnail thingie handled. It's too easy, that was the problem.

This is looking straight down into the bow tank through the new port (or more precisely, through the hole the new port will be installed in). That blob looks like it was probably dripped onto the styrofoam during the original installation (can't think how else it would have gotten there). This leads me to believe that the styrofoam is the original stuff.

It hasn't fallen down into the bilge, I think because at the bottom of the tank there are a couple of horizontal pieces forming a plug.



And here are the stemhead and bow cleats, looking pretty secure (without knowing what's behind the goop, or how well it will hold).



And here is the bow hook. Looks good except for the corroded nuts.

[Alan]

GreenLake, thanks for the thumbnail. I finally puzzled out how to add the others.

As for flotation, I've got some moisture-resistant styrofoam-type house insulation left over from doing the attic. It's rigid, two inches thick and intended for damp locations, like basement walls.

I was thinking about using it, since it's already paid for and could be cut into the right shape. I did a quick test and found that about a square foot of it will float a 10-pound barbell weight at the surface.

If that doesn't seem like a good idea, I've got a big collection of two-liter seltzer bottles (none of that unhealthy soda stuff around here .

[GreenLake]

That's the stuff I used. With a bit of planning you can fill a much higher percentage of the space than the "loose fill" you found. I think it's level of water proof-ness is high enough - but I'm not an expert. Make sure whatever you choose to "float your boat" you have some way to reach the bottom of the tank to check for pooling water.

[GreenLake]

@Alan, I think your post is more about flotation than hull/deck separation. Let's make a new thread out of it.

[Alan]

GreenLake,

Yeah, I made the hole mostly to look at the L-bracket, but I do seem to have wandered afield. A new thread is a good idea.

I think the bow tank on the DSII is open to the bilge, so any pooling water would collect there. I'll need to confirm this, but I'm the chef tonight, so it'll have to be later.

[GreenLake]

Sorry, I'm always thinking DS1. Comes naturally for me

The DS 1 has drainage holes (1") plugged with cork, to allow draining the tanks. Problem there is that they sit 1-" above the hull, so will trap a pool of water, even if open.

With the trailer tongue down after a storm, that's how I got rain water into the tank (the corks are effective only in the short term).

So, by all means let's make sure we keep the models straight.