Vang questions

[RobH912]

Just wanted to "finish" my part of this thread from last winter with what I ended up doing for my vang and add some pictures (we all love pictures)

The boat had come with a 4:1 40 mm Harken fiddle block set up for the vang. After many discussion posts last winter on both increasing purchase and having the vang cleat at the boom end rather than the mast end. I went with a 6:1 set up using Harken 29 mm Carbo-Air triple blocks (part # 2641 and # 2647) and used 1/4" sta-set line. Was happy that the it was easier for crew to make adjustments since cleat was at boom end and “cleats up”, but found that sometimes the vang line “fell out” of the cam cleat since the cam is facing down.

This summer still need to tweak the vang, maybe either flipping the the upper block around, re- reeve that block so cam faces up, or maybe just getting a micro cam fairlead over the cam on the top block that will help hold the vang line in place. May also add another set of blocks to double the purchase to 12:1

Thanks for everyone's thoughts and comments.

[GreenLake]

By falling out, you mean, accidental release of the vang? That's something we haven't seen with our setup, which is pretty much the same except the blocks would be Ronstan's equivalent to your Harken blocks/cleat.

[RobH912]

Yes line came un-cleated, line fed through the blocks and Vang tension lessened.

Maybe line was not fully up into the cleat... not sure.

Happened more than once.

[GreenLake]

I've had my vang rigged like this now for more seasons than I can remember and never had that happen once.

The tail for my vang is short. No way to step on it, accidentally, for example. Because I have a cascade, the length of my 6:1 block and tackle can be shorter. It's only as long as needed for the required range of adjustments. That means the the bowline that connects it to the cascade is at a convenient place to loosely hold the end of the tail: I just push the stopper knot through the two legs of the bowline loop which are pulled taut and the tail is out of the way, but still allows adjustment.

Finally, you could have a non-optimal pairing between cleat and line. Although the dimensions are the same, we have different brands of cleats and the rope I use is also of different construction. Mine feels slightly rough and bumpy. It runs fine through the blocks, but is very grippy. (Check the "Rope for various lines" thread, I probably document it there).

[RobH912]

The tail for my vang is short.

I actually think this may be an issue, as with the limited times out last fall I never got to trim the new Vang line. Not long enough to step on, but too long / extra line weight pulling out, combined with the line is now in the way of crew moving side to side on racks.

When I get the boat rigged in several weeks I was going to check on line length / trim the line.

Thanks!

[GreenLake]

Cool!

[IslandFarmer]

Long overdue thanks to Tom (tommoda) and Green Lake for your input last summer. The vang project is for another year ... replacing jib track is my priority this off season. Last September and in my short 5-week season this year, I've paid much more attention to weight balance. Weather helm is no longer such a problem. I also realized that if the rudder "tail" decides to pop up behind a guest skipper, they really have to fight, so I'm on to that, too.

[GreenLake]

Five weeks sounds too short. Unless you sail daily, that is. . .

[Fly4rfun]

Beats my season, not out once yet, been banned from sailing and motorcycle till mid October, but next year.........

[GreenLake]

We feel for you!

[Fly4rfun]

thanks GL, they said it would take 6 months for the sternum to completely heal, but i will be getting strength built back as we go, get to return to my place tomorrow,
its been nice but can't wait to get home at least i can do small things there. do a sail for me.

[GreenLake]

I've been doing an interesting sail, even though not a novel one, and am working on a write-up. Will share if it comes together.

[MikexB]

Y'all inspired me to invest in a boom vang. I purchased the components listed on Ronstan's website (#8). https://www.ronstan.us/marine5/vang_systems.asp I included a bail for the mast (Ronstan RF1046) and one for the boom (Ronstan RF180). When everything arrived, I discovered that neither bail would fit through the hole in the RF468 "Dinghy Block Ferrule Top."

I keep my boat on a trailer and rig/unrig every time I go out. It would be handy to have an easy way to do this with the boom vang. What do y'all recommend I use to attach the blocks to the bails? Also, what about attaching the line to an anchor point, per the #8 diagram?

Thanks!

Mike

[GreenLake]

Not a problem. You can use a snap hook and a D shackle. The snap hook gives you easy disconnect and the D shackle will add the 90 degree twist you need to line things up.

D shackle

D-shackle.GIF (5.45 KiB) Viewed 24273 times

Snap hook

snap-hook.GIF (4.32 KiB) Viewed 24273 times

The parts pictured are made by Sea Dog. Be sure to check the breaking strength and select the appropriate size. (Assume that safe working load is some fraction of the BS). I would advise against using parts that have no rating, as the forces on the vang are among the highest anywhere in the DS rigging.

I use an equivalent setup, with a second snap hook at the mast end.

If your bails are the typical U-shaped ones, do they swivel a bit when mounted or is their position (angle) fixed? (I have both a single bolt one on the mast side and a fixed one with multiple rivets on the boom side). The fixed ones must be lined up at the correct angle or the van will bend them. Don't ask me how I know.