A new keel stepped mast raising technique?

[Slim]

Thought I'd share my contraption for raising my mast. As soon as I got my daysailer, I knew the "freehand" mast raising technique wasn't going to work for me. Too risky and unpredictable to do alone. So this is what I came up with. This is the mark 2 version. The first was a tripod sort of thing out of wood. This one's made from an old set of aluminum crutches. Was hoping it wouldn't need the guys to bow and stern, but it's just not strong enough without.
Anyhow, it works, it's safe and controlled and it's quick...ish.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39KBRZwOhDI

[GreenLake]

An interesting approach.

The setup and breakdown are significant, though you show only the latter.

They way I raise the mast standing in the cockpit, once it's in my sleeved hinge I don't need to do any setup or breakdown. And I'm standing in the right place to do port and starboard shrouds w/o running around the boat. If I have a helper, they get to do the forestay and the rudder while I dive below to tension the rig with the mast jack.

Yours looks cooler in operation, though

[UncleHippie]

Hey Slim, I like this approach. I bought my 1959 version (hull #28?) about 2 years ago and immediately took it out for 2 test voyages to verify it had no leaks and to try out the rigging. With help from 2 friends I quickly learned I definitely needed some mast raising assistance, especially when I want to single hand. The project has been on hold since then, but my goal is to get it back on the water for my birthday in mid June.

I have been thinking about building something like what Greenlake has, but this has me thinking that this may be a quicker solution since there is no permanent modification.

It looks like the hinge support (crutches) goes down into a separate hole and then rests on the keel step... correct? did you have to do anything else to help resist lateral movement as you raise the mast?

Thanks for the inspiration

[tomodda]

I bought my 1959 version (hull #28?) about 2 years ago

WARNING: THREAD HIJACK

For what it's worth, DS'es were built from 1958 onwards, at a clip of about 1 a day for at least the first 10 years. Source being the list of boats/owners/sail numbers/dates in the history section of this forum. So your boat is most probably either built in 1958 with sail number 29, or built in '59 with a low triple digit sail number. However, as noted before on this very forum, there were all kinds of crazy anomalies with the early (wood seat) boats. The hulls are all the same, but the finishing details, rigging, and especially sail numbers were often whatever the shop foreman pulled out of the bin that day. Anyway, sail numbers can be a fun historical sleuthing expedition but don't change how the boat sails. Enjoy!

THREAD HIJACK OVER

[GreenLake]

I have been thinking about building something like what Greenlake has, but this has me thinking that this may be a quicker solution since there is no permanent modification.

@UncleHippie, the "modification" required for the hinge I have on my boat is limited to a few bolt holes around the mast partners (=opening in cuddy deck).
The bolts hold the platform (disk) that the hinge attaches to. Unbolting this platform removes everything. If this is ever required, those can be filled and faired in the future with limited effort. (But I bet the next owner would like the same ease of use). --- And in time, you'll find many different types of fairleads that you want near the mast base, and the platform is a great way to anchor them without turning the deck into a Swiss cheese.

The actual mast raising goes much quicker with a hinge, because other than inserting the foot of the mast, there's no setup and breakdown of any support. If you are short or can't push about 40# from shoulder level to arms fully extended, this wouldn't be for you (unless you have a helper on deck). Controlling the mast, once (near) vertical, is not as difficult as it seems. Although, again, if you have a helper standing on deck the first few times you do it (or if you are short) would be useful.

Raising/lowering the mast while in the vertical position is also not as hard as it may sound. The mast is not really all that heavy and as long as it's vertical, there's no issues with lever arm. On lowering, the partners will help keep your mast upright. So you can safely let go and guide the last bit onto the mast step from below. On raising, what you need to watch out for is that you don't raise the mast too far, so it exits the hinge. With just a bit of practice, you'll know where to place your hands on the mast so that, once pushed up, your fully extended arm limits travel of the mast.

However, @slim's method shines when you don't have the size, mobility and strength. You could adapt the hinge to be used with a tripod (I've sketched that), but that takes the same amount of setup and is a bit slower in operating that that "tilt-crutch" design.

[Slim]

As I see it, the biggest advantages of this method as opposed to greenlake’s are:
- no sleeve/hinge arrangement on deck while sailing. Things are pretty much set up on a bare mast/deck as far as sailing control lines.
- when stepping mast, everything is well balanced over the boat. No need to start with mast hanging way out over the stern. Some ramps have limited swing room.
-very controlled and balanced. Raising mast is actually pushing down on the base of mast.
-Associated parts make good mast supports for trailering. My mast ends up being suspended horizontally about 3’ above the boat which is very handy for all the various boat fiddling while on the trailer with the mast unstepped .

Definitely adds some rigging time to set up. Probably 10 minutes total.
Current crutch version does require a 1” hole drilled in cuddy and corresponding “step” aft of the mast jack on the keel.
My original wooden version had two legs with pins that fit into the chainplate holes. This was definitely a sturdier arrangement.

I will be honest that I’m leaning towards cutting the mast and making a true tabernacle-not just a hinged joint above the cuddy top on the mast. This seems like it would be by far the quickest setup, doable on the water without additional equipment, just as strong as keel stepped if designed well and probably unnoticeable difference in sailing performance for cruising purposes.

[tomodda]

I will be honest that I’m leaning towards cutting the mast and making a true tabernacle-not just a hinged joint above the cuddy top on the mast. This seems like it would be by far the quickest setup, doable on the water without additional equipment, just as strong as keel stepped if designed well and probably unnoticeable difference in sailing performance for cruising purposes.

@Slim, I'm assuming you mean using a cuddy-roof mounted tabernacle without the lower Mast, aka compression post. I'd strongly advise against it, for one simple reason. Compression. The Daysailer Mast stays up because the stays are pulling it down onto the keelson. Relatively speaking, the cuddy roof is about as stiff as a red Dixie Cup. If you are stepping the mast to the roof, then you will have way too much, and very dangerous, slack in the entire system. Think of the roof flexing up and down as you pound thru waves, or distorting wildly sideways as you take a gust and heel. The solution to avoid these scenarios are - you guessed it - a compression post, aka taking the mast all the way to the keel. Yes, there are many boats that step their masts on deck or to the cabin roof, but the put significant re-enforcement beneath it, essentially building a "ring" to take the compression force down to the keel via the hull. Don't re-engineer the DS, use the compression post..

Now, if I'm wrong and you are not stepping the mast to the roof, then my apologies. Same considerations still apply, though, make sure your compression forces go to the keel/keelson as directly and cleanly as possible.

Tom

[GreenLake]

It's easy to say "cruising is less demanding of sailing characteristics", but is it true?

We certainly hear this a lot, but it's probably worth unpacking it a bit.

There are some aspects of sail trim and sailing technique that result in slight or even very slight increases in boat speed or pointing angle. If you need another boat sailing in the same wind and conditions to detect the difference, yes, that's something critical to a racer, but way less important to a cruiser.

Pointing angle: this one's more tricky. If you are cruising extensively, you may end up in a situation where you're forced to make upwind progress -- or else. We had a moment on a multi-day cruise in company event where we had to sail a ship canal at close hauled angle. We made it, in fact, only by starting on the more upwind side and squeaking by on the more downwind side at the exit: but we made in a single tack. That was a huge difference over having to tack across the canal one or two times in the middle.

With better sail trim, we would most likely have been able to even stay on the same side. Those are very real world differences that matter to cruisers and racers alike.

Finally, there's gust response. "I'm a cruiser and don't need the complexities of a boom vang" would be the understandable but entirely incorrect approach. A vang is a crucial element to improve gust response for your boat, allowing you to safely weather gusts that would otherwise force you to reef earlier or even strike your sail.

As a cruiser, especially again on a full day or extended cruise, you may not have the luxury of perfect weather forecasts or the ability to avoid stronger winds. Gust response is simply a safety feature.

On the trip I mentioned above, we only managed because the boat was loaded to the gills and we had about as much weight in live ballast as you'll find on a DS. The boat felt more like a keel boat in its gust response, but had we been much lighter we really would have missed a vang.

The difference in sailing characteristics between a full, keel stepped mast and a deck-level tabernacle (with compression post/mast segment below) is not well appreciated. I'm sure Tom is up to the challenge or explaining the difference and how it might translate into not only boat speed but increased safety.

[tomodda]

The difference in sailing characteristics between a full, keel stepped mast and a deck-level tabernacle (with compression post/mast segment below) is not well appreciated. I'm sure Tom is up to the challenge or explaining the difference and how it might translate into not only boat speed but increased safety.

In a word: Pre-Bend. If anyone wants to discuss the difference any further, let's chew on this subject in a separate thread.

[Slim]

Sorry if I was unclear. No intention of doing away with a compression post. What I meant was a sturdy tabernacle above deck paired with appropriate structure below deck. A tabernacle that would support the mast well when being raised or lowered, possibly even when on the water. I have, however, considered the possibility of adding sufficient structure to the cuddy and hull so that the compression post could be removed when at quiet anchor or dockside in order to free up cuddy space for camping aboard...
And I guess I opened up a can of worms broaching the whole “cutting the mast subject.” Surely every aspect of one’s rig impacts performance, and the better the performance of your boat (and self), the better chance you have of dealing successfully with the myriad conditions that may be encountered on your adventures. Don’t know how ditching the boom vang got into the conversation- I never suggested that.
I would argue, however, that as a cruiser, one might reasonably give up some sailing performance in favor of other characteristics that improve safety, comfort, and versatility. As far as this tabernacle question goes, think of dodging a storm by being able to drop your mast and hide up a tree lined creek, or on the other side of a bridge. Or get the lightening rod lowered! I don’t know, just a thought. Yes, our boats came with deck stepped masts, which contribute to their inherent sailing qualities, but they also came with poorly shaped rudders and centerboards... every modification is a trade off, even if it’s just in time spent shaping a sweet rudder vs. getting out there and sailing with what you’ve got!

[tomodda]

Greenlake and Forum Friends:

After losing my beloved #37, I'm kicking the tires on a new-to-me DS1, it's got a full-length mast. This seems as good a thread as any to ask for tips on single-handed raising. Yes, I read GreenLakes handy summary sheet, yes I gravitate towards building a mast sleeve (rather than this interesting crutch arrangement), yes I understand moment arm on our 40-pound masts. I'm trying to understand the finer nuances here. Questions:

1) Once the mast is lowered down into the hole, is it stable enough to let go of it and go attach the side stays? Side-to-side stability is what worries me the most. What if you don't get the mast to land exactly on the mast-jack pin, it's either skewed a bit or not down all the way? Can I still let go, hurry under the cuddy and set it onto the pin by hand? Even with no side-shrouds?

2) How exactly do you get the foot of the mast into the sleeve while it's sitting on the trailer? Single-handed.... All that mast hanging off the back of the boat. I'll have a mast-crutch at the rear, but still...

3) Same question in reverse, how do I take the mast out? Detach the shrouds, pull it up so the mast heel is in the sleeve, and then what? Again, single-handed

4) How long does it take to raise the mast, more or less, from taking it off the cradle to all the way raised and attached?

5) I assume you bungee the shrouds and halyards to the mast while raising it?

6) Sleeve takes up some space at the foot of the mast. Where do you attach your vang? and where for the Downhaul or Cunningham?

I'm just trying to think my way through this. I need to plan as if I'm always single-handing, and I want to save as much time rigging as possible. Rig time has always been my main "bugaboo" for sailing the DS. I love them, but sometimes I'm sorely tempted to rig a standing lugsail (sacrilige! just kidding! )

Thank you in advance for any answers!

Tom

[GreenLake]

1) no worries. Mast will not fall if inserted far enough into the deck. I usually fix a misaligned mast from the top bending down a bit to get a view then standing straight to lift a fee inches and reset.

2) from outside the boat! The CG of the mast will be tight close to the transom as you insert onto sleeve. Easy to balance.

3) once you have the mast pushed up (don't go past the sleeve ) you lower it onto your shoulder. All this while standing on the cockpit. Then turn and drop into the crutch. Then hop out of the boat to extract from the sleeve an move mast forward. Only if you have a helper will you stay in the boat for this step.

4) 5-10. That part isn't t the slow bit. 10 should be enough tome to attach the boom as well.

5) Shrouds and halyard are secured to the mast by wrapping the tails around mast and shrouds. Bungee are added only for transport.

6) there's enough space for a cleat above the sleeve for Cunningham and downhaul. Vang goes on a U bail attached to bottom of sleeve. Should be visible in my gallery pix.

Total launch time solo is slightly under one hour if everything goes well. Including a spinnaker. Main stairs on boom but is rolled next to it. Sheet stays on boom. Jib sheet remains rigged and is connected IA soft shackle. All to speed rigging time.

[tomodda]

GL:

Thank you for your answer. An hour rigging though? Daunting... On a good day, I could do 30 minutes, but that was with the tabernacle mast. Do you think the full mast is adding considerable time? Perhaps.. All it takes are a few more trips in and out of the cockpit.

[GreenLake]

The way I count is from pulling up to the boat launch to casting off. And I always rig both a motor and a spinnaker. And this also includes the time to park the trailer a block or three away and walking back.

In my experience, raising the mast is not what takes the most time. Far from it.

PS: I think I have it down to where I only climb into the boat once. And get everything done that can only be done from that position. However, it means walking onto the foredeck to fix the forestay because I have a mast jack. With Highfield levers for tensioning this could be done from outside the boat.

[tomodda]

GL:

Thank you for your reply. I also count the time from pulling in to the parking lot to boat leaving the dock (I skip over the time it takes to actually raise sail once away from dock, figure that's part of the fun). You're saying that you have to park 3 blocks away makes the timing a little less daunting. TBH, I'm very torn, I WANT another DS, I don't want to go thru all the time that it takes to get out on the water, and I'm thinking thru how to cut down on time.

I should just get another DS then figure it out. Besides, my worklife has changed a lot post-COVID, I don't have to fit in weekday sails only after work, I can be more flexible. Makes setup time less of a factor, anyway! And one solution is just shell out the hard-earned dollars and pay my local marina to let me drysail (keep boat set up but on the trailer, launch immediately). Makes my boat addiction more expensive, but the real expense is boat not being used.

Tom