Jib Sheet cleating location

[James4]

My jib sheets currently go through the block on the seat back, and cleat on top of the CB trunk. I'd like to switch to a block and cleat on a sliding car on that track. I'm sure it's out there somewhere, but if someone knows the source and exact part number, I'd be grateful. I'd also like to know if they're happy with the location. Thanks, Jim

[GreenLake]

Jim, I'll move your post to the "Rigging" section because that was intended for this kind of topic.

What kind of track do you have? Is is a silver or bronze color, strip of sheet metal stamped in a shallow U shape with ears? Or is it more of a solid T shape out of black anodized aluminum?

The former would be original and Rudy at DR Marine might have what you need, if those are still made or in stock. There's a brand of inexpensive blocks and stuff sold under then name RaceLite. Not something I've used, but the "build your own plywood boat" crowd used to swear by them. Their favorite supplier is called DuckWorks. (I haven't kept up whether there have been post-pandemic changes in those last two in terms of availability).

The latter type of track could be a Harken small boat track, and then you'd look in the Harken catalog (or at suppliers carrying that brand) to see whether there are parts that combine block and cleat.

When I got my boat, I broke the existing track on the maiden voyage. I didn't know about DR Marine then, and just went ahead and replaced a lot of original parts with Harken small boat parts. We have a great local shop that had all that in store so I could look at it before buying (and they have knowledgeable staff).

Over time, I swapped out the simple blocks on the tracks with ratchet blocks (Ronstan 55mm). The Harken cars can be taken apart to mount a different block. These allow me to hold the jib sheet without fatigue and nowadays I rarely cleat them (my cleats are on the CB, but they are not "captive" meaning I can hold the sheet in any direction and then move it over the cleat to cleat it, instead of having to pull from the cleat location.

I also do something that works for me, but seems to confound people who don't expect it. I tie the two ends of my sheets together into a continuous loop. When single-handing, I can grab the sheet anywhere and then move my hands along it until I'm at the correct place to pull it. "Lost" jib sheet tails that are out of reach are the thing of the past, even without having captive cleats at the CB.

I'm adding all this seemingly unrelated info to perhaps prompt you into rethinking why you want the block/cleat combo (or reconfirming your thougts as the case may be). I'm nervous about anything that might be difficult to uncleat because you might not be able to pull at the correct angle. Or about anything that might have a tendency to re-cleat by itself when you cast it loose. Both of these can end up in a capsize.

My setup works well for me single-handing in moderate winds (or sailing with inexperience/untrained crew that needs assistance). When sailing with trained crew the downside is that setting a non-captive cleat can require "foot assistance" - to provide a bit of downward pressure. That's usually not an issue, and with the ratchet blocks (which are permanently engaged on their "auto" setting) it's not as critical to cleat the sheet; in fact, in variable conditions, crew will prefer not to.

[James4]

Dear Green Lake,
First, thank you for your long and detailed response. You're very dedicated to these Day Sailer boats and kind to respond with so much detail.
My 1975 DS II has the silver colored tracks with the wings on them. I'm guessing they're original. I will give D&R a call. The main reason I'm thinking of moving the cleats to the rail is because every boat I've owned had the cleats on the rail, and I'm used to it. When I bought my DS it didn't have cleats anywhere. I put a block of wood on top the CB housing, which was already drilled, and mounted a cleat for each jib sheet. The original sheets are too long, but I've been reluctant to cut them till I determine they need to be cut. So there's a lot of line hanging around the floor, and it gets confusing. When I replace the worn out lines, I may do some color coding.
So I'll take your suggestion about D&R, and I won't do anything drastic till I've sailed the boat more and become convinced one way or another. Thank you again for your time and suggestions.

Thank you again, Jim

[GreenLake]

Thanks for your thoughtful reply. It looks like you are patiently assembling your options and gathering experience with your boat. That's the best basis for making decisions and on the DS, one size does not fit all. There are as many different configurations as there are happy owners. You just have to find the one that works for you and your style of sailing.