Possible mod to bypass centerboard cables.

[Lloyd Franks]

I am thinking about eliminating the need for cables to raise and lower the CB on my '73 DS2. I envision a device (about 4 ft. long 2" wide, 1/4" thick, rigid, flat metal) that will attach to the top of the CB, and exit through the top of the CB housing into the cockpit. The rigidity will allow me to push the CB down, and just as easily raise it. Some hardware can be used to lock the CB when raised. There is already an opening about 2" long by 1/2" where the downhaul block is attached to the top of the CB housing. Once I solve the problem of forward and rearward movement of the rigid device when raising and lowering, (perhaps by lengthening the existing opening) I think the project can be successful. An added bonus will be to visually know where the CB is by looking at the device. Has anybody done anything like this? And does anybody see any problems? The device will remain attached to the CB when the CB is down, but will be on the trailing edge. Thanks for your help.

[Reef]

Lloyd - Your idea makes perfect sense to me as I've contemplated this as well. I think we can all agree that the cable arrangement is pretty poorly engineered. A rigid arrangement that is hinged at appropriate intervals would seem to make for a sensible modification. A hinged arrangement would allow for better stowage of the rigid member when the board is in the raised position...just my thoughts to further stimulate your creative problem solving...

[Adrift]

I think we can all agree that the cable arrangement is pretty poorly engineered.

Don't know about that. This particular arrangement may have a few weaknesses, exposed because the popularity, longevity, and many hours of use the boats were to get was not anticipated 40 years ago when an affordable daysailer was put on the drawing board.

A cable type uphaul is by far the most common method for raising a CB on hundreds of models of boats because other methods rapidly gain complexity with little gain in utility. The lightness of the board on this model is what necessitates a downhaul. You can replace the line with an elastic cord (bungee) so that you never pull the board down. If you are not going to race, replace the board with one filled with lead, or at least in the lower end (tip), and forget about the downhaul line.

You can mark the cables / lines with colors to indicate position. Or mark a pattern or glue/tape a ruler down on the cuddy deck so that the position of the uphaul block can be measured.

How will your bar release if you strike bottom? Will you have a 4' bar shooting out of the trunk like a sword then flailing about the cockpit?

[Bob Damon]

I am having difficulty envisioning what you want to do. Be aware that removing or cutting away the top of the centerboard housing will result in water entering the boat through this opening. Also depending on the extent of removing the centerboard trunk top you may be violating class rules on modifying exterior lines. If you are going to do something like this I recommend contacting me before hand to insure you do not violate class rules with your modification. Thanks, Bob Damon

[Lloyd Franks]

The opening at the top of the CB housing is about 1/4"x3". The area of the opening is less than the combined openings needed for the uphaul and downhaul cables, and since it at the top, little water will enter, if any. I will plug the existing holes, so theoretically,much less water CAN enter. As to the 4 foot (more like three) "sword", it will be in the boat only when the CB is in the raised position, when sailing downwind or motoring. Small price to pay for the amazing convenience. If the "sword" gets in the way, I will come up with a fix that will rotate it down to the CB top. All of these changes can be undone with some filler. For me the issue is academic, as I am not a racer. I will keep you posted as I proceed. Thanks for the input.

[Lloyd Franks]

Hitting an underwater object is part of the advantage of the "sword". If the board fails to return fully to its lowered position, you will see it via the sword. There's really no way to be certain with the cable system, unless you pull the downhaul.

As to the area of exposure to water, I did not do the math, so I stand corrected. But, as you point out, the likelihood of water decreases the higher on the CB trunk you go. Thanks for the input.

[Lloyd Franks]

For those who may be interested, I tested my "bypass" mod at the dock today, and will sea trial tomorrow. The items needed for the mod are:

One eye bolt, on eye screw, one small nut, one lock washer, 4ft.length of 1/2 inch PVC, one female and one male coupler.

Needless to say, this was the finale of many false starts and screw-ups, too numerous to relate . But the final fix is elegantly simple.

I will try to take some pix tomoroow. AND, you must have the courage to cut away part of the CB housing.

[sandiegosailor]

I would certainly like to see a drawing of this new centerboard
arrangement. Having sailed many boats over the years, I really
enjoy the daysailer but that centerboard rope arrangement
is poorly designed and the position of the board is not
obvious when sailing. Lots of room for improvement here.
I am surprised no one else has tried this before.
Please give us all the details of the new device.
papier555@hotmail.com

[Leif]

I'm about to embark on the threaded-pipe fix for the leaky centerboard trunk, so I'm curious about this option. Seems like the "sword" would get in the way, or be broken by a careless or clumsy guest--or owner! If this really works, I'd love to see some pics.

[Lloyd Franks]

It works perfectly...Better than I envisioned. The so-called sword is a length of one-inch PVC that extends up from the CB housing about 30 inches. Of course, once the CB is lowered only about 10 inches remains exposed. The PVC is connected to the CB using an eye screw and an eye bolt, enabling the PVC to swivel in any direction when raised And the opening to the CB, from which the pvc extends, is near the cuddy hatch, so it's out of the way. And even most of the PVC can be unscrewed (using female and male threaded PVC). I did cut out a small section of the centerboad (about 3 inches long), and filled the gap between the outer and inner housing with expoxy (bought at Home Depot) for access.
I have used the new system about 6 times, and it works like a charm. No more cables, no more blocks. And bilge is dry. I will take some pix on Friday. Then I have to figure out how to upload them. They should be up by the weekend.

[Lloyd Franks]

I'm attaching two photos. One shows the CB "controller" with the extension attached. The other shows the extension removed. The boat was on the trailer, so the CB was raised. When sailing, the CB controller (with extension in place) has about 8 inches remaining visible in the cockpit. Board raises and lowers easily, with no water in the bilge. When the board is lowered, I attach a bungee to the top of the controller, and tie the other end to a cleat at the base of the CB housing. That allows the CB to pop up when needed, and then go back down automatically. Works fine. http://new.photos.yahoo.com/lloydfranks

As always, these mods may not conform to design requirements for racing. Not a concern for me, but may be for some.

[mark mirkov]

i tried to link to the photos but apparently the page no longer exists. tho my cables never jammed while sailing, i do have to change them now because one has snapped. i am considering your bypass system. does anyone have these photos on file which could be sent to me?

[phil]

I too was not able to get the pictures but since I am in the middle of a restoration, I would be quite interesated in the bypass system. Could you post the pix again? or email them to me at philcapper@fastmail.fm thanks