Jib Car Location

[calden]

Nice work on those jib cleats. I would never have thought about putting them there.

I find that with the cleats on the cb trunk, over the thwarts, I can get to them easily enough even in light air, no matter what side of the boat I'm on.

I can see we all like working with wood.

Please stop snowing. We've reached a record #2 position for snowfall during a winter season. Supposed to be up to 60's on the weekend but I wouldn't be surprised to see more snow. Got to get on the water.

Carlos

[jpclowes]

Perhaps a dremel with a cutoff wheel could shorten the bolts that hold the forward check blocks. Those things look like a nice thigh scratch makers if you get too far forward or slip durning a manouver.

phill

Good Idea. Actually I meant to do that and forgot. I'll do that this week.

You might try putting the fairleads on the coaming futher forward, like in Caldens picture at the beginning of this thread. For beating this will put a little more leech tension on the jib and keep the top from twisting too much.
phill

I usually adjust them for wind speed. Usually the first thing I do when I race is go out and adjust them so the tell-tails, up and down the sail, all break at about the same time. If I remember correctly, it is forward for heavier air, aft for lighter. To be honest, they are there simply because that was where that point was the last time I sailed last fall.

Very nice work and a great idea.

phill

Thanks! Actually, I have to give credit to Ken Seamon, who I copied it from. He had (has, I haven't seen his boat in a few years,) his cleats there. The setup seemed to make sense, and I was looking for a solution for my crew.

[Phill]

You couldnt be getting ideas from many nicer or smarter than Ken. I've been blessed to race against he and his daugher Erica, in a couple of NACR's. They are FAST !!!

For Jib lead position, you are correct. Rule of thumb would be forward in heavier air to keep the jib leech from opening too much, and back to keep from closing the slot too much in the light stuff. With the Jibs that I use, I havent moved my fairleads at all for over 15 years. With the In-haulers, I just try to get the leech to point at the spreader tip in all airs. I use the jib sheet to control jib twist and the In-hauler to get sheeting angle that I want. Seems to work ok.

If you see Ken, give him my best. Just say Phill on Lollipop, he'll know.

phill

[Bob Hunkins]

I like your setup, J.P. I've got something similar on my boat. (see link)The cleat is further inboard, and I use an additional block to give a fair lead, so your method uses less hardware.
http://daysailer.org/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=118

[jpclowes]

Bob
I really like your setup too. If I had seen it before Ken's I might have copied it instead. It took me a long time to find those aluminum "L" brackets I mounted my cleats on. It never occured to me to just mount the blocks and cleats on the top of the cuddy cabin.

Phill
I couldn't agree more. Ken is a perfect example of what I love about sailing in this class. A gentleman both on and off the water, and a really good sailor.
Ken actually crewed for one of the guys in my fleet at Midwinters a few weeks ago, so I hear he is doing well.

[MrPlywood]

Amazing how I keep stumbling on topics that I thought I had thoroughly searched for! Anyway, I've bought some swivel blocks to replace the antiquated (and altered?) jib sheet system, and I was curious about the jib car that I've seen on some models. Just to clarify what I've read in this post, I should be able to get away with a stationary block and compensate with in-haulers and sheet control, correct?

I plan on installing the new blocks inside the coamings, just below the through-holes that are there now - essentially the forward position.



I do like the multi-block systems that some of you have installed. I may give that a go later.